OK my engine looks like it was stored in the ocean. rusted out everything. I have replaced most of it but there are still items.
I need new headers/ manifolds and likely up pipes. manafolds are 200.00 but what up pipes should i get? the factory is good but the stuff riffraff sells is 500+ for stupid pipes. I'm pay in a shop to do the work as i just know the header bolts will snap off. It will get costly I'm sure. One side is leaking at the head already on one valve port. I told the shop to just pull the engine and redo the oil pan, seal the dipstick and do the exhaust but they don't want to have that much work taking up the shop room. How hard is it to pull the exhaust bolts without snapping them? I know I can spray them down but I just don't see that helping that much.

 

Best to cut them right behind the flange of the header then remove the header and try backing them out. Mine were all loose enough to back out by hand once the manifold was out of the way. I removed the inner fender and the shock mount as well to make it super easy. The riff raff pipes are worth it unless you can get some bellows and weld them in yourself. You will have to remove the collector from the turbo to get the upper pipe bolts out. At least that's what I did.

 

One trick to exhaust bolts is to soak them for a couple of days and before you try to remove them try tightening them a little first then back them out.

 

both great advice. liquid wrench? PB blaster or ???? soak the big time or hit them multiple times? Does it help if the block is warm but not too hot? I remember heat draws stuff in but that may not be true with oil.

 

Soak them all good and a few heat cycles never hurts. Three of mine were siezed in the manifold and had to be cut.

 

My approach is similar to Nates.

>take air hammer with the bell looking bit and air hammer on the manifold. This will knock all the rust off of the manifold and surrounding area to allow you to see what you're dealing with.
>Use a cutting torch to QUICKLY cut a slit through the nuts. Too much heat and you'll cut off the stud too. Try to just zap a slot through the nuts.
>Use a long screwdriver/prybar and put the tip in the slot/slit you just cut with the torch. Hit it with a hammer to knock the nut into two pieces separating it from the stud.
>When you're done you should just have all of the studs left. DO NOT attempt to turn them out yet.
>Get air hammer back out with same bit as before and put it directly next to the stud and air hammer. This will knock all the debris/rust out of the hold around the stud freeing it up. This is normally what prevents them from turning thus making them break. Air hammer until junk stops falling out from around hole. Do this to all of the studs.
>Pry/pull manifold off.
>After this you should be able to use a regular stud extractor and turn all of the studs out. They normally fall right out for me.
>Use anti-seize on the threads of the new ones. You probably don't plan on taking them out again, but if you do you'll be grateful you did.

Just be patient and take your time. I know doing them sucks but they suck a lot more when they break off.

 

Thanks.
The studs to the up pipe are rusted 3/4 way through the stud. I just hole the manifold studs are in better shape.
What is a stud puller? I know 2 nut method but I don't know what a stud puller is.

 

Mike I just read your other thread. If you are replacing all the exhaust on the engine you could just move towards and s366 and have 25% of the cost saved by not buying up pipes for the old engine. Then all the parts up top that are prone to leaking will be gone as well.

 

maybe time for this


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...akify-mod.html

 

Say what? I don't know what any of that is..... Talk to me man...

 

Is that what nateairman was talking about?

 

SD uppies are cheap compared to ours so maybe getting SD manifolds is the way to go but I have not priced them out along with the other parts needed

 

Ultimately you need to move more air effeciantly to lower EGT. That is not our turbo or an SD turbo.

The freakify mod is a good one and I did it however it is simply to make the turbo removable while leaving the pedestal behind.

A s366 kit will include all the hard ware needed to attach to OBS manifolds if you specify that in the order. If you get SD parts for free you can put a 38r on the truck and get better EGT numbers.

But all this being said if you have the coin and want to do it once buy a complete kit.

 

what kit from who?

 

I am not trying to sell something but it's is the kit I am eyeing or the 369sxe

https://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/product/idp-t4-s366-complete-kit/