Hey guys, I have a bugger of a problem. My old (77) starter went out. Since I have headers and had to a C clamp and crow bar to get the old one out, I changed to a 92 4.9 smaller pmgr starter.

I researched and changed the 4 ga. lead to the batter side of the sol., and ran a 10 ga. lead from the post on the sol. where the + lead bolted on originally, and connected to the small wire on the starter.

It started fine a few times, disengaged fine. But when I drove it it was fine for a few miles until I got on it. Then it made a terrible noise, as though the starter was engaging. I thought maybe the oem solenoid beside the battery was going bad and making the trigger lead hot while running. I disconnected the trigger lead while the truck was running. Got on it from a stop and no noise. But half way around the block it started again.

It is fine at idle or cruise. But on acceleration it makes a terrible noise. It makes me wonder if a flexplate nut came loose.

Any ideas?

 

How To Properly Wire Your PMGR Mini-Starter - Ford Bronco Forum

Check your wiring against that...I bookmarked that article some years ago when I was going to change starters...which I haven't done yet since the one that is currently on the engine gives no sign of giving up yet...

 

Thanks H, yes, that's the diagram I copied. Today I disconnected the trigger wire to the starter while it was running. It still make the noise when I got on it, so I don't see how it could be starter related. Tomorrow I will ck the flexplate nuts and see if they are all in place.

 

F-250 restorer, since this noise only began after the work recently done, check the starter and header alignment. Perhaps something came loose or broke when you had to pry to remove the original [larger] starter?

 

These kind of issues are frustrating. When did you change out the starter?

 

Thanks, guys. After sleeping on it I realized that it had to be starter related. But I couldn't understand how I could disconnect the trigger wire and the sound still came. Nor could I fathom why it only happens when I get on it, and not every time I get on it.

I will check for broken pipes, etc.

Now I suspect that it may need shims ....

After fighting the oem starter with removal/installation, I will say it was glorious how the efi stater went in!!!

 

Two Quick Questions:
Do you have the spacer plate between engine and trans?
Does the starter match the trans you have (std or auto)?

 

J.O.: Yes, I have the spacer plate. I have a C6 and the starter is for an automatic.

Problem solved. I installed two shims, washers, and there is no more noise.
It ingages and disengages properly, or so it seems.

It would be nice to fab a spacer plate to go over the entire circumference of the starter, where it mates to the bellhousing or oem spacer plate, but for now I am pleased, if just a bit concerned about torque on the bolt ears.

 

Something like this? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-02359/overview/

 

Oh no, yes, I had no idea they made such a thing! That is perfect! Thanks for the link.

 

This raises an interesting point. Does the efi era starter require more cranking amps than the older starters?

I have 12.36 volts registering on my battery and it cranks the new starter slowly, as though the battery is dying.

 

that is interesting. not to insult your mechanical prowess (you know more about these BB6s than most)...but you're sure all terminals are shiny clean? good clean grounds as well? Just a thought.
I wonder if they do draw more juice though. smaller starter motor to do equal the amount of work as the carbed engine starter...stands to reason it'd need a bit more current. might be worth looking into the manufacturer ratings, or even running some tests.

 

Great you figured out your install!

But I wanted to add something to that diagram and that's to use a Fusible Link on that small #12 wire to the starter. I'm kinda **** about stuff like that, butt I know the factory probably didn't use one there.

 

F-250 restorer, I believe it was The Frenchtown Flyer who in the past has said it requires less amperage. Please correct me if I misquoted you, FTF. Is the "slowness" you are noticing due to the gear reduction incorporated in the PMGR starter? Is the ground path as good while you use the washers as shims?

 

Hey there Dude. No problem. I'm laughing because I realize that experience and know-how does not mean one follows the proper procedure, right? Sometimes I am just lazy and do the bare minimum to get done with a car project. But ... to answer your question, yes, I couldn't find my wire brush, so I cleaned all the ends and terminals with sandpaper; that is, those that were not shiny new.

After testing the battery and finding iit good, I'm wondering if I damaged the starter by driving it a bit when iit was making the noise. It simply should not barely crank. I have good think power lead to the starter, good 10ga trigger wire, good batt. juice, good 4ga ground. I should remove and clean the ground though. I did not do that. Remember that lazyness I spoke of?

I'll ck the ground, and if that doesn't change things I'll warranty the starter.