Hello everybody,
is there a proper guide for changing the plugs and coils for these engines? Mine is the 5.4. I read bits of information over the internet here and there which doesn't seem consistent. There is also not much information on youtube about this particular job either. This is my first vehicle and will be my first job changing these plugs and coils, by the way.

I would like to remove as many components as I can to make the job easier, and I would also like to know any precautions I should take, I think I may have read something about plugs cracking for these 2v engines.
I do know I need to over-torque these plugs when replacing them to ensure they never back out. But I'm wondering if any of you master Ford techs can please provide a proper guide in tackling this job. I believe it can be much easier with the proper information, which really seems to be lacking across the internet.

There is no information regarding what components to remove in order to access the rear plugs better, only one source hardly mentions removing the fuel rail for better access to the front 2 plugs.

Another thing I simply cannot find is any information regarding a compression test on this engine. Will I even be able to access the rear sockets with a testing gauge? Is there any special procedure for this?

I kind of need this info as a crutch due to my inexperience.

 

To my understanding, I will be able to just remove anything as long as I'm careful, I know fuel lines need extra caution, and I know the AC system is pressurized. I would assume the aluminum tubing represents the high-pressure end of the AC system. Im hoping I dont accidentally open the low pressure end, mistaking it for a vacuum line or something, if the low pressure side is not distinguishable.

Really hoping somebody chimes in with a proper guide to all of this.

 

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All you need to remove is the coil for each cylinder or the plug wires if it has coil packs. Once the coil is off the plug, blow compressed air into the plug well to clean out dirt debris and moisture that may have accumulated down in the hole.

If the plug is tight and squeaks when you try to turn it out, soak it with PB Blaster or equivalent penetrant before plug removal. The 2 valve doesn't have a problem with the plugs breaking. Other than being down in a hole it is a normal plug change. Start the new plugs by hand, torque to 30. No big deal other than being down in a hole and way back under the cowl. There should be plenty of slack on the heater hoses to move them out of the way enough to reach the back plugs. I have never heard of anyone (ever) messing with the AC on one of these trucks to change spark plugs.

 

AC lines do not need to be touched.
Actually nothing has to be removed to do them (except the COP), but a few things make it easier.
Removing the air intake tubing makes it easier to get to plug 5 and 6 (front 2 on drivers side). 1, 2, and 3 are easy, 4 needs a swivel and a few extensions to get to.
For me, 7 was a pain, but the fuel pressure regulator was right above the bolt for the # 7 COP. First time I did not remove it and it took me longer to remove and replace that 1 bolt than the other 3 on that side. 2nd time I did it, I removed the drivers side fuel rail (after bleeding the pressure off) and took a lot less time.
# 8 also needs an extension and swivel.
As said above, blow out the plug holes before removing the plugs.

Install Motorcraft plugs for best results. Tighten to 26-28 ft lbs with no anti-seize. These motors have an issue with spitting the plug out if not torqued properly.
Broken plugs are a problem on the 3v 5.4, not the 2v 5.4.

You may want to replace the COP springs and boots, making sure the connector on the plug side of the coil is clean. The coils rarely go bad, and a lot of times it is a connection problem.

I am sure there are several plug change videos on youtube, and I know I have seen a how to (maybe another forum?).