Hello - I purchased a 2000 F250 gasser with the 5.4 engine and 147K on the odom. I've been going through it to get ready for towing an 18' alum. boat this summer - flush rad., tran etc. I'm at the point where I need to decide what to do with the spark plugs. After reading posts about spark plugs blowing, breaking etc. I'm a little paranoid about touching them (are they really that fragile?)

The truck starts and runs good. The engines clean. Looks well maintained. The previous owner told me he replaced the plugs a little over a year ago - of course he wanted to sell the truck . I was thinking of pulling one plug up front to check the condition. If the plug looked OK, would you check the others? Would you check the torque but not remove all of them?

Sometimes the saying "if it's not broke don't mess with it" makes sense. I don't want to get in there and mess something up unnecessarily but I want to feel reasonably confident a plugs not ready to blow. Sorry for the long post. Thanks

 

In my experience with the modulars and plugs you are usually good for 50k-60k of good running then you are on borrowed time. Even if the plugs look great without a lot of gap wear the ground depletes the longer the plugs are in the head.

I have always been using Motorcraft of Autolite Single Platinum plugs and replace them every 50k miles. I prefer the Motorcrafts due to the nickel plating. After 5 thousand or so miles I pull the cops and double check to make sure they are tight. My dads truck is coming due for plugs again so I'm going to experiment with some Autolite Iridiums on his truck. Just did the plugs on my truck 5k miles ago. RockAuto has the best prices so I get plugs from them.

So if it were me I would replace them. The PO said they were replaced a year ago when in reality they were probably replaced 2-3 years ago.

This is the socket set I use to do the plugs.(magnetic swivel set) They are worth the money. KD Tools Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Set | Spark Plug Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

Change plugs on a cold engine, slowly turn out the old plugs(don't force them), use the socket only to install the new to plug to help prevent cross threading. I don't use a torque wrench.. I snug them down by hand but don't over do it. I've changed a lot of plugs with no issues that way and it works for me. IMO the recommended 12-14 ft lbs is not enough and part of the cause for loose plugs and plugs blowing.

 

Thanks for the info dkf. I think I'll pick-up that socket set. I've read some people remove the fuel rail and some don't. Is the job significantly easier with the fuel rail removed (or are the benefits worth the extra labor.) It looks like it would be easier to get at the left plugs with the air intake tube out of the way so I'll probably remove that. I'm leaning towards going ahead and replacing the plugs but there's that part of me that's saying "it's running fine, don't mess with it."

 

I do not even unplug all the COPs (coil on plug) from the harness to prevent breaking the plastic connector. Only COP I unplug is the hard to get to ones like cylinder #5 on the 6.8l V10 engines. So to answer your question I do not remove or even touch the fuel rail, there is no point.

Also I forgot to mention. When you remove the COP blow out the spark plug recess with compressed air BEFORE you remove the plug. You don't want any dirt or debris to fall into the cylinder. Since your truck is up in miles it would probably be a good idea to replace the COP boots while your replacing the plugs. The boots are not that expensive.

 

Thanks for the info and advice. It helps.

 

i would definitly use a torque wrench.. mainly the plugs blow out of the heads after a change because there not to the torque spec. i did mine on my 02 on a Cold engine and took my time. anti seized the new ones and i used a rubber hose to put the new plugs in so i couldn't cross thread

 

What's a "spark plug"?

 

I've used the rubber hose method to get plugs down recessed holes - it works good and that's what I'll do with the truck.

I gotta say, over the years I've changed plugs in cars, trucks, boat motors etc. with no problem. I've never had this much anxiety about a plug change. I have to stop reading all the plug horror story posts.

 

IMHO...if you are going to change the plugs...then take the extra step and replace the boots with springs.

Fill boot with dielectric grease...and use anti-seize on the spark plug threads.

Both spark plugs and boots...I use Motorcraft.

Good luck...


biz

 

Sounds like your more than up to the task. Start with the front plugs first so you see how everything comes apart and goes back together before moving to the harder to access rear plugs. Not a hard job it can just be a little intimidating when changing them for the first time.

Pulling the intake tube will give you more room to work on the drivers side. With the intake tube removed it is a good time to pull the throttle body off and clean it.