Aside from an intermittent sound I have been trying to diagnose, my truck needs some more, uhh, input right now. i.e. $$$

I have the classic oil leak on the top, around the turbo pedestal. One pro looked at it for me and suggested the HPOP itself might be just about done, given the age and level of use....there is probably more than one small leak. I did have some of the easier lines replaced about half-way through the service life of this truck.

So it is likely I need a new HPOP altogether &/or it would be silly to just replace multiple seals on such a heavily used item.

And it seems likely to me that the Turbo unit could probably use some TLC, though I'm not sure what all that would entail.

I have to decide if I want to spend what could probably total > $3K on this, at the mileage in my sig = 471K. Is it really a "Million Mile Engine" ? I take the best care of it I can - synthetic oils, keep filters new, coolant flush, etc.

It is a tough decision. Usually I have just fixed what needed to be done, to keep on working at the time, without usually much choice.

Pluses

Naturally I have replaced plenty over the years. A couple water pumps, radiator, electrical twice, most front end parts, hubs twice (Motorcrafts), shocks, etc., etc. I understand any of these will go out again if I attempt to get another 200K on this truck.

I currently have an almost new set of All Terrain tires on it.

The higher $ core parts in the drive train have mostly been replaced. A complete drive shaft rebuild. Rear differential replaced, using one with only 100K miles from one of my mechanics, who's daughter totaled the truck, insurance-wise; so he purchased the salvage. Replaced transfer case motor, though not with a Motorcraft - I suspect my random intermittent sound is in this.

Last December I had to have the front drive shaft replaced while I was in the middle of a job far from home. Also new lock-outs on the hubs. The 4wd works when I need it though I probably only drive 10 miles a year in 4wd. But when you need it, you need it. The mechanic who helped me with that one was succinct - "You'll never get your money back out of these." But then his shop was surrounded by Dodge and GMC diesels needing major engine work at 200K miles.

The engine is running great. (All stock by the way, I travel extensively and work in extremely rural areas in Forestry work. Have never wanted to get into a situation where I need some help and some mods create difficulty in repair.)

I know precisely how 7.3s handle, tow, etc. I put 100K on two other examples owned by someone else before about 285K on my own, purchased at 187K.

Minuses

By now you are wanting to know - how is the Transmission. 4r100 Automatic in my case. It is working fine right now and is not sending out any codes last I checked. It has been babied as much as I can; have lowered the fluid change down to around 20K miles, did one complete flush at about 400K, perhaps risky but no problems resulted.

I have used it for I think what would be considered "light" towing. About a 3,000 pound trailer, on perhaps 15% of the miles. An original owner had a 5th wheel hitch removed so I don't know how much it towed before I bought it.

This could almost go in the Plus column - I can probably get a 4r100 for $1,500, used, with 100K miles on it - same truck my differential came from. Mechanic owner, well taken care of.

But I haven't checked with him on that in over a year. He said he would call me if he needed to get rid of it. Great shop where 2 owners each had 2 7.3s - one stock, one hot-rodded up. But they are 1,500 miles away from my summer work areas.

Neither back door of the crew cab will open right now. Not looking forward to tackling that or getting a quote from a body shop. I can only do the easier work on vehicles - electrical, hoses, simple stuff. If I had a pole barn, a spare truck, and a spare month to teach myself how to rebuild a whole lot of a diesel engine I would surely enjoy that. But I have none of those things.

The biggest minus - the mystery of what else _could_ happen when one attempts to drive past 500K with "a Semi grade engine, surrounded by automotive grade everything else"





Any thoughts appreciated.

 

First off I don't fix what ain't broke and I don't know what symptoms a failing HPOP displays but I would like to know. I'd check ICP and if it's where it's supposed to be it's working well enough for me. O rings on that can be and are replaced with great success. Turbo? Pull the intake tube and inspect the blades for damage, push, pull, side to side on the shaft and check for wear. A smidgen of play side to side (up down same thing) is normal, the oil that circulates around the shaft has to have some gap to squeeze through. Fuel lines up top can be inspected, passenger's side replaced or insulated at the mid run mounting bracket, that's a wear spot. Otherwise unless they rust through they should go forever. Turbo pedestal and EBPV rebuild couldn't hurt, not too bad or expensive to do.

That's a start.

 

Some type of scan tool that can record how the HPOP is performing would be my first step if you are concerned about it.

The turbo? Likely nothing that a rebuild kit won't fix, and a new wheel if it is beat up. Rebuild the pedestal while you're in there as well.

 

Oh I forgot one Plus - this truck has only been in the salt for a half-dozen days, ever. The body is in great shape. I bought it in the south and and work in the south in the winter months. I'm not too worried about rust issues on things, mostly just worn-out service life issues.

Good ideas so far, thanks.

 

Don't let miles scare you off 90% of the time things will last a long time if you don't live in the rust belt. All are cheap fixes if you do them yourself.

 

500k miles, your just about to have 'er diald in…I have no concerns on mine and I'm pushing 457k+ now…

 

My wife and I ran into a fellow camper the other day that had a 99.5 F-250 7.3 with 1.2 million miles on it. I have seen several listed on the interwebs before and know that there are many more out there.

The heart (engine) of this truck is strong and will last a long time if cared for properly, it is the other parts around it as you know that will fail time and time again.

 

I have to side with the crew. I have nearly a quarter mil and this thing is my right hand. I bought an 08 6.4 for it's one day replacement and at this juncture, it sits in the garage for tsb known failures. (great rig, but just ironing out the known's before Ole red caps himself).

Old guy (I'm old, but like rumple stiltskin old) down the street knows I have the old and new SD's.

He drives a L99. He flagged me when he saw the new one being flatbedded home. Asked me what was up.

Told him the new one crapped a radiator. Hands on his hips, "shoulda took this one, how old are you anyway".......54. That engine will outlast you! And walked away.

I'd stick with your rig and just do the same thing you've been doing.

Makes my heart feel good to have something I can trust and not stuck with a hood up in the barn.


Denny

 

When a mechanic suggests changing the HPOP because you have an o-ring leak, it either means he doesn't know what he's talking about, thinks that money for the rebuilt pump isn't that big a concern since he's charging you labor to remove it anyway, or is just looking to take as much of your money as possible.

I handed down my 7.3 due to some knee issues and not being able to work the 3rd pedal. Son in law still drives it with around 560,000 miles on it. Original HPOP. Original turbo.

The turbo isn't that hard, but it is a little time consuming and daunting the first time if you're not used to playing under the hood. But in reality, it's just loosen or remove some bolts and clamps then change out some o-rings that cost next to nothing.

The rear doors is likely just the plastic clip has come loose (unless it's your child locks and it only won't open from inside). That's harder to reach, but easier to fix. Remove the plastic door panel and put the rod back in the plastic clip and snap it shut. (A bit harder than that since it involves reaching inside the door and contorting to reach / see what the heck you're doing in there).

 

When it comes to owning a 7.3 and operating it well past where regular pick-ups go, I am reminded of an expression about a favorite band - "If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand."

So I really only wanted to hear from 7.3 owners on this question. The shop that helped me diagnose the top end oil leaks admitted they hadn't seen this engine much, but I didn't have a lot of shops to choose from right then. They weren't sure the HPOP was done, but some of the seals are for sure.

I have located an International-focused shop an hour away right now that I will probably consult with. I frequently work many miles from pavement and then many more miles from some tiny crossroad, and frequently without cell phone coverage, so I'm not that into the wait-till-it-breaks approach.

Given what I have into the drive train it does seem worth a good careful look at the high pressure oil system. Thanks everyone.

 

If you have to change the ICP sensor and yes it will pour oil out the top if it snaps- its VERY easy- get the OEM, none of the others lasted more than 2 days

 

Repair it, maintain it, drive it.

(I expect my truck to be inherited.)

 

I'm 65...expect my truck to outlast me...

 

It might, but I'm still kinda upset we never got the Jetson's flying cars instead. Weren't we supposed to have all that stuff by now?

 

if you have a smart phone ( pretty likely) down load torque pro or froscan app , order a blue-tooth obd2 dongle . monitoring icp pressure and ipr % will tell you what you need to know about your hpop, boost, trans temp, converter slip, voltage , really there is quite a bit of info that our trucks can tell us about themselves, i belive that fuel pressure,egt and coolant temp( unless you have zf6) are the only ones i can think of that do not "report back" to the emc.