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This is on a 1983 F150 300 carbureted straight six with an EEC.
So here is the story:
The truck was running beforehand, yet with lack of power.
Since the EEC on this year is rare, all catalogs listed a duraspark iii as the ignition control module. I couldn't find it anywhere on the truck (because now I know it has the distributor mounted icm...) but I found two plugs on the drivers wheel well that were near identical so I disconnected where they were and plugged in a duraspark iii.
These wires were going toward the fusebox at the kick panel. I tried turning over the engine (which turned but no fire) and then plugged the wires back into where they were. Now the truck will not fire at all. I set up my timing light and I'm getting nothing.
It's a bit difficult to trace the wires to see what exactly I may have fried since I can't find a schematic for the truck with the eec. Any ideas on what I may have done/suggestions for fixing?
This is on a 1983 F150 300 carbureted straight six with an EEC.
These wires were going toward the fusebox at the kick panel. I tried turning over the engine (which turned but no fire) and then plugged the wires back into where they were. Now the truck will not fire at all.
confusing: "no fire" "not fire at all" mean the same to me.
So, does the engine starter crank the engine over?
If you have the distributor mounted ICM, I don't think you have a EECIII, but a EECIV system. EECIII still had the box mounted on the fender much like the duraspark II box.
If you have the distributor mounted ICM, I don't think you have a EECIII, but a EECIV system. EECIII still had the box mounted on the fender much like the duraspark II box.
OP has a 1983 F150.
Two different modules were used in 1981/83:
E1AZ-12A297-A - no location listed in parts catalog, so I don't know if this is a remotely mounted or a TFI module.
D9VZ-12A199-A - this is the blue module because the parts catalog says it's remotely mounted [on the left fender inner apron]).
confusing: "no fire" "not fire at all" mean the same to me.
So, does the engine starter crank the engine over?
Sorry about that... Yes, no fire == not fire at all -- Engine turns over and have power everywhere.
Franklin2, yes I have the EECIV with distributor mounted ICM which I have now replaced (after my mishap) with no luck.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Jacob Lyon, is your truck a California build?
Photograph your ignition module when you get the chance.
Also, do you still have a Calibration Code?
The VIN says assembled in VA. Igniton module looks just like the one Franklin2 posted. I'm not sure what you mean by calibration code -- have any links to this info?
I wonder if you can pull the codes from the computer. Your system should be just like the fuel injected mustangs and later trucks with fuel injection. See if you can find some plug-ins like are shown in this link and see if you can pull any codes like the link instructs.
Right now everything is pretty dirty and two of the wires are completely stripped - I plan on soldering a new connector on. -- I'll get the colors next time.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
"Power everywhere" needs to be better defined..
Sorry once again -- I meant everything besides ignition -- lights, dash, starter motor, etc.
Originally Posted by vjsimone
Spark @ Plugs? Spark from Coil?
Was not getting any spark at plugs or from coil (tested with ignition timing light for both). Measured secondary resistance of ~4.7kohm, a little low -- new coil is on the way.
For the other voltages, I've measured some of them a few days ago but I'll get them all next time.
I wonder if you can pull the codes from the computer. Your system should be just like the fuel injected mustangs and later trucks with fuel injection. See if you can find some plug-ins like are shown in this link and see if you can pull any codes like the link instructs.
So I tried pulling codes -- It seems like it didn't initiate the test. I tried with just a voltmeter w/ the sweeping and got nothing.
I also tried an obd1 scanner which said was compatible with an 83 straight six -- still got nothing from the scanner. (side note -- there are two single pin connectors (one is green/light blue and other is white/red-dashed, any idea on which one is the STI?)
After measuring across the PCM relay with the ignition on I get ~1V difference between the two main contacts -- could this be an indicator of a bad relay??
Hey guys, so I'm not exactly sure what fixed the problem but it's been running fine for a few days now.... The only possible thing I could think of is does the PCM get ground through the case? -- Once I took it out, I just left it hanging free with no contact to chassis... Then I put it back on whim and started to get spark.
As for voltages -- this is what I was getting before I put the box back in:
Anyhow, thanks for the help -- I'll be putting the new parts I got in and cleaning up under the hood a bit now.
Hey guys, so I'm not exactly sure what fixed the problem but it's been running fine for a few days now.... The only possible thing I could think of is does the PCM get ground through the case? -- Once I took it out, I just left it hanging free with no contact to chassis... Then I put it back on whim and started to get spark..
There are multiple ground connections in the circuit.
The case is connected to the circuit board via 2 strap connections from the case to the circuit board.
There is a case ground shown in the attached schematic from another member.
There are a few circuits that use battery & body ground via the 60 pin connector.
Sometimes there is a ground at the battery terminal connection. In addition there is sometimes a ground at the back of the intake manifold drivers side.
The TFI ground goes to the ECA, so the TFI circuit gets its ground via the ECA Pin #16.