Almost 200000 miles
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Orange County, CA
Almost 200000 miles
My '07 is about 4500 shy of hitting 200,000 miles. I'm looking for others' input on things maybe to look out for or think of doing as matter of prevention.
The truck is an ' 07 XLT Super Crew, 5.4. I've owned it since June 2011, purchased as a Ford Certified with 52,000 miles. I replaced​ passenger side cam and followers @ 115000 miles when a couple followers seized. The trans was rebuilt @ 160,000 when it gave out. Radiator replaced at about 140,000. MC coils @ 170,000. It's a 2WD, with a 2" level kit up front. Other than that, nothing else has been done to it mechanically, just routine maintenance. I change oil between 4000-4500 miles with 5-20 MC and only use MC 820S filters. Front suspension, rear axle, u-joints, engine bolt on parts are all original, even alternator. The engine is quiet, only the ticking of injectors.
As I get to almost 200,000 does anybody have suggestions of things I should replace just as a matter of prevention? I really like my truck, plan to get as much as I can from it, even thinking I'll replace engine when the time comes.
The truck is an ' 07 XLT Super Crew, 5.4. I've owned it since June 2011, purchased as a Ford Certified with 52,000 miles. I replaced​ passenger side cam and followers @ 115000 miles when a couple followers seized. The trans was rebuilt @ 160,000 when it gave out. Radiator replaced at about 140,000. MC coils @ 170,000. It's a 2WD, with a 2" level kit up front. Other than that, nothing else has been done to it mechanically, just routine maintenance. I change oil between 4000-4500 miles with 5-20 MC and only use MC 820S filters. Front suspension, rear axle, u-joints, engine bolt on parts are all original, even alternator. The engine is quiet, only the ticking of injectors.
As I get to almost 200,000 does anybody have suggestions of things I should replace just as a matter of prevention? I really like my truck, plan to get as much as I can from it, even thinking I'll replace engine when the time comes.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2015
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I don't know off-hand when they changed the design, but look above your spare tire for your fuel pump driver module. The original design was right up against the steel frame, which could lead to corrosion, the newer version has studs that keep the two separated and eliminates this problem. I'm replacing mine for this very reason, as it's already started showing signs of exterior corrosion.
Of course, if you already have the newer design, you can disregard this reply.
Of course, if you already have the newer design, you can disregard this reply.
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From: Orange County, CA
Good idea, I will take a look. I live in Southern California, so luckily, rust and corrosion is nothing really to worry about here. The body on the truck has zero rust and the original black paint is in very good condition. I stay on top of washing and waxing the truck. But I will sneak a peek at that module just to be sure.
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From what I read, the problem with the style of fuel pump driver that I have on my '05 and you may or may not have on your '07 is that it's made of aluminum and bolted directly against the steel frame. Apparently having dissimilar metals in contact with one another and any kind of residual moisture can cause corrosion to occur over time, although in an environment where salt is present, it corrodes at a much faster pace.
Again, Ford did eventually get their stuff together and in later models there was a spacing stud between the two to prevent this. If it hasn't started showing corrosion in 10 years, that's good, but for $55 on Amazon (at least as of right now) you can eliminate any chance of that. It's probably one of the cheapest and easiest preventative maintenance repairs you can do in terms of replacement part cost and install time.
Again, Ford did eventually get their stuff together and in later models there was a spacing stud between the two to prevent this. If it hasn't started showing corrosion in 10 years, that's good, but for $55 on Amazon (at least as of right now) you can eliminate any chance of that. It's probably one of the cheapest and easiest preventative maintenance repairs you can do in terms of replacement part cost and install time.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
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Good idea, I will take a look. I live in Southern California, so luckily, rust and corrosion is nothing really to worry about here. The body on the truck has zero rust and the original black paint is in very good condition. I stay on top of washing and waxing the truck. But I will sneak a peek at that module just to be sure.
I'd be very surprised if you didn't see any kind of corrosion on the piece when you inspect it. Mine was so corroded you could see the motherboard underneath, luckily never failed me but my cousin had issues with his and said I should check it out. Easy to get to (if you can lower your spare tire - I unfortunately had to cut my spare tire, rim, cable down with a sawzall, that was a fun day) and a cheap enough part to get the upgraded design.
EDIT: http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=11833 in case you don't pick up what I'm puttin' down.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 243
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From: Mass.
From what I read, the problem with the style of fuel pump driver that I have on my '05 and you may or may not have on your '07 is that it's made of aluminum and bolted directly against the steel frame. Apparently having dissimilar metals in contact with one another and any kind of residual moisture can cause corrosion to occur over time, although in an environment where salt is present, it corrodes at a much faster pace.
Again, Ford did eventually get their stuff together and in later models there was a spacing stud between the two to prevent this. If it hasn't started showing corrosion in 10 years, that's good, but for $55 on Amazon (at least as of right now) you can eliminate any chance of that. It's probably one of the cheapest and easiest preventative maintenance repairs you can do in terms of replacement part cost and install time.
Again, Ford did eventually get their stuff together and in later models there was a spacing stud between the two to prevent this. If it hasn't started showing corrosion in 10 years, that's good, but for $55 on Amazon (at least as of right now) you can eliminate any chance of that. It's probably one of the cheapest and easiest preventative maintenance repairs you can do in terms of replacement part cost and install time.
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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I was wondering if someone on here has done something like that if their module was still good, using nylon washers to make a gap between the two. Obviously that would be the cheapest preventative measure, providing the module was 100% corrosion free. But if there's any signs of corrosion, I'd say just replace the whole part and don't even take the risk, especially given how inexpensive the part is.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Orange County, CA
Good points, guys. I just finished doing a check up, since I'm going to be doing a 400 mile trip to Yosemite tomorrow. I removed the module, nice and clean original. I brushed off any dirty and made sure it was good.
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