I've tried whacking on em, air chisel, pry bar, I'm guessing there's some tip I'm missing.

Do I need to remove the ball joint to get it loose?

Any help is appreciated!

 

I'm dead in the water at this point right now:

 

I am looking in the service manual.


NOTICE: To prevent damage to the ball joint seal and the ball joint socket, do not use a pickle fork-type remover to loosen the ball joints.

Strike the lower and upper end of the axle to loosen the ball joints and the camber adjustment sleeve.



Remove the camber adjustment sleeve.
Use the General Equipment: Two Leg Puller




Remove and discard the lower ball joint nut and remove the front wheel knuckle.

 

Awesome, thanks 👍
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NOTICE: The caster/camber adjustment sleeve must be removed and the axle bores and adjustment sleeve contact areas cleaned to ensure proper torque sequence. If not clean, damage to the ball joint, adjustment sleeve and/or axle bores can occur.

NOTICE: Failure to remove the caster/camber adjustment sleeve can result in a hard to steer condition.

Thoroughly clean and inspect the axle bore and adjustment sleeve contact areas.




Install the camber adjustment sleeve.




NOTE: Only tighten the nut finger tight at this stage.

Position the knuckle onto the axle and install the upper ball joint nut.




Install the new lower ball joint nut.
Torque : 44 lb.ft (59 Nm)

Install the upper ball joint nut.
Torque : 69 lb.ft (94 Nm)

NOTE: If necessary, tighten the nut until the cotter pin can be installed.

Install the new upper ball joint cotter pin.

Install the new lower ball joint nut.
Torque : 150 lb.ft (204 Nm)
I guess they mean just finish torquing the lower nut.

 

The 2-3lb brass hammer from Harbor Freight is great addition to any tool box. Although probably not impossible, I have yet to do any significant damage to threads when I beat on the exposed stud with a big brass hammer. It transmits a lot of force and shock without damage to the threads.


Adam

 

I might just pay someone to do it, I can't seem to get to the lower nut to loosen it. I wish it wasn't 90 degrees out right now...

 

it does say to remove the tie rods as well

 

A propane torch and some penetrating oil. Heat the knuckle around the outside of the caster cam and then apply penetrating oil. Then a good whack on the front edge of the knuckle with a 3lb sledge. Made it easy on my 06 and my 2016.

 

On a new truck, it shouldn't be too difficult to get them out.


When I did my leveling kit on my 07, I simply soaked them with penetrating oil then whacked really hard on the top of the stud with a brass drift (Harbor Freight) and a hammer. After a few strong whacks, they loosened up and popped right up.


Try to avoid hitting the stud directly with a hammer - you risk messing up the threads.

 

make sure all the weight is off the axle.
leave the nut on the ball joint stud, but loosen it.
just whack around the ball joint stud on the knuckle. is should break it loose. then gently pry the sleeve up.
don’t need to do anything with the lower

 

just curious.... is it necessary to change the caster bushing if you do a 3.5" level with the radius arm drop backets??? Or is it only necessary when you leave the radius arms in the factory position?

Thanks

 

No, the radius arm brackets are your caster adjustment.

 

That's what I figured.......

Can't wait for you get your carli springs installed. I bet your truck is gonna be insane with the 2.5's and everything.

 

Me either! I'm kind of dragging my feet waiting to see if my buddies come up with something from their attempts with eibach springs, but I'm not known to be a patient man lol.