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If there is noticeable play between the king pin and the bushings, they both probably need replacing. There is a specification as to how much movement at a certain distance from the axle. You will most likely find specs in your shop manual. The king pin being good quality steel and the bushing being a softer material, brass, the bushings will usually wear first and the most.
As someone mentioned above, raise and block the lower end of the kingpin solidly and use force on top of the axle. Sure is easier than trying to beat the pin upwards.
KIngpin replacement is not for the faint of heart but a job most of us are capable of. Just takes a few tools and persistence. Good luck on finding someone with the correct hone to do the bushings. I've done my own.
I put a small bottle jack under the old kingpin . The truck was raised with 2 jackstands under the front axle on a cement garage floor. I then put a junk 1/2" socket between the bottom of the old kingpin and the top of the bottle jack. On the right side it pushed the kinpin out easily. On the left side the jack raised the axle off the jackstand. When the axle was about 1/4" off the stand I beat on the axle with a sledge. The pin started to come up and the axle was again on the stand. Repeated it a few times and it was out. I do have a huge advantage though- all the front sheet metal is off the truck. I don't know if you could swing the sledge with the sheet metal in the way.
I did mine on my '52 F1 for the cost of $25 (Amazon Moog part) and a borrowed reamer-since have found my dad's. Once the old pins are out it is pretty easy....
Rent a ball joint tool kit from O'Reillys and use an impact wrench to remove the old ones. I bought one from harbor freight. I have found other uses which it has paid for itself
I got my spindles back from the old guy, all reamed and ready to go for $20.00. So I am happy. Got the spindles back on and the disc conversion, it all fits well. My tube that goes between the tie rod ends is bent so I am going to straighten it and install the new ends and set toe roughly, then on to others things...
I just got back my axle from the machine shop - it was $120.
It would have been less $$ but the kit that I bought online turned out to be oversized pins, even though the box was not advertised or marked as such.
So the guy had to put extra time into it to get them to fit.
But it is done, I'm happy because I didn't break any tools or bleed and I know he did them correctly. This shop also did the pins in my '51 several years ago and they came out great.
Tom
I just got back my axle from the machine shop - it was $120.
It would have been less $$ but the kit that I bought online turned out to be oversized pins, even though the box was not advertised or marked as such.
So the guy had to put extra time into it to get them to fit.
But it is done, I'm happy because I didn't break any tools or bleed and I know he did them correctly. This shop also did the pins in my '51 several years ago and they came out great.
Tom
Yeah, I accidentally ordered the oversize pins the first time. I think they were .869? whereas the regular ones are .859? So you had to have your axle also reamed? I sent back the oversize ones and only had to ream the new bushings in the spindles using the standard pins. The old guy said that the bushings were reamed to .861 which give .002 clearance. At least you now know that everything is good and tight.
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