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The manual is not proportional to speed. If things are good with your trailer, pulling the break-away will lock the wheels. If that doesn't happen, the problem is with your trailer.
As Steve said, the manual lever isn't proportional to speed. If you have the setting at Medium 10 then when you lever is completely pressed you get the full Medium 10. It is proportional only in that it gives a percentage of force depending upon how far the lever is pressed.
The manual lever will also give maximum force at times then the brake pedal will not. The 2017 manual says that the brake controller reduces output at speeds below 11 mph, but only when using the brake pedal.
Pulled the break-away cable and the trailer wheels locked where I could not move without the tires skidding on the pavement. I have an appointment with Ford service tomorrow and will repot outcome. Thank you all for your help.
OK BofMD you win, though I am not surprised. I took the truck in yesterday for oil change and the ITBC issue and picked it up today. They, of course, could not find anything wrong though the service advisor admitted that his brake controller is set to 6.5 and he can lock the wheels on his trailer with the manual lever where mine is set to 10 and high on the aggressive and I can't stop the truck at 30 MPH with the manual lever in less than 100 feet. They said that nothing can be done unless it throws a code or completely fails. According to the service report the controller test shows 10.2V and 17 amps at the 7-way plug with the manual lever and pedal test at 2V and 3 amps. There are no module updates at this time.
OK BofMD you win, though I am not surprised. I took the truck in yesterday for oil change and the ITBC issue and picked it up today. They, of course, could not find anything wrong though the service advisor admitted that his brake controller is set to 6.5 and he can lock the wheels on his trailer with the manual lever where mine is set to 10 and high on the aggressive and I can't stop the truck at 30 MPH with the manual lever in less than 100 feet. They said that nothing can be done unless it throws a code or completely fails. According to the service report the controller test shows 10.2V and 17 amps at the 7-way plug with the manual lever and pedal test at 2V and 3 amps. There are no module updates at this time.
Any suggestions?
yes, if you have amps at the seven pin and you have established the trailer brakes are good, it is a connection issue. To verify that you need to test amp draw on the blue brake lead at the junction box at your pin box. You should get the same reading there the dealer got at the seven pin.
OK, some home test results:
7-way plugged in, not on trailer ball, manual slider engaged each wheel brake draws 2.5A to 2.6A.
7-way unplugged, break away switch closed, each wheel brake draws 2.7A to 2.9A.
It seems this is close enough to lock the brakes with the manual slider so either it healed itself or the Ford service tech fixed it inadvertently or on purpose. I am guessing they got 17A at the 7-way due to the size of the load in their tester.
OK, some home test results:
7-way plugged in, not on trailer ball, manual slider engaged each wheel brake draws 2.5A to 2.6A.
7-way unplugged, break away switch closed, each wheel brake draws 2.7A to 2.9A.
It seems this is close enough to lock the brakes with the manual slider so either it healed itself or the Ford service tech fixed it inadvertently or on purpose. I am guessing they got 17A at the 7-way due to the size of the load in their tester.
Are my assumptions good?
each wheel should draw 3 amps, total of 12 through the blue wire at the J box on the pin box when magnets are fully powered.
each wheel should draw 3 amps, total of 12 through the blue wire at the J box on the pin box when magnets are fully powered.
Steve
My junction box is either buried behind cabinets or above a belly pan, trying to find a drawing to locate it (2015 Airstream Classic 30). Wouldn't the amperage read the same at each magnet wire at the wheel?
My junction box is either buried behind cabinets or above a belly pan, trying to find a drawing to locate it (2015 Airstream Classic 30). Wouldn't the amperage read the same at each magnet wire at the wheel?
Steve
yes it should be the same, close to 3. I just use the blue lead that feeds all of them to save time. If you have 12 or close to it in total, you should be good to go. If the problem is gone, when the dealership checked it, they cleaned the connection. Sometimes just plugging and unplugging it is enough.
yes it should be the same, close to 3. I just use the blue lead that feeds all of them to save time. If you have 12 or close to it in total, you should be good to go. If the problem is gone, when the dealership checked it, they cleaned the connection. Sometimes just plugging and unplugging it is enough.
Steve
OK, thanks Steve. Once I locate the terminal block for the umbilical I will check it there. We are heading out on Monday so if no improvement I will pull the couch, apparently the terminal block or junction box is on the forward bulkhead behind the couch.
Eureka! Found an exposed blue umbilical wire and it tested 12 amps with the manual slider. Thank you Steve for walking me through this. Hopefully, when I get it on the road I will be able to turn down the gain and dial it in for the trailer as advertised.
On the road and at 30MPH quickly engaged the manual slider and the trailer brakes did drag the rig to a stop but not fast enough to my liking.��
given you have full amperage to the magnets, the only step left would be adjusting the trailer brakes, but do verify you have brake controller set all the way up.
given you have full amperage to the magnets, the only step left would be adjusting the trailer brakes, but do verify you have brake controller set all the way up.
steve
The controller is set to max 10 and at the high on aggressive. If the break-away switch locks the wheels I don't understand why the manual slider control will not. I guess I will have to live with it. Thank you for all your help.
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