Check trailer light keeps coming on
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 101
Likes: 5
Check trailer light keeps coming on
The check trailer light keeps coming on even though I don't have a trailer connected its annoying and I wanted to know if anyone had an idea how to fix it. Its a 2006 f250 with the 5.4
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
With the trailer all connected up to the truck put the trailer wheels in the air and actuate the brake controller (with the truck key on of course) and try to spin the tires. If one doesn't spin there's the problem. I'll bet the connection to one of the brakes is open or intermittent. Wiggle wires on both sides. If the brake wires are terminated at the brake plates with "scotch locks" that's the first place to look. I cut out those junk connectors and recrimped with butt shrinks with die electric grease stuffed inside then shrink tubed over all of that. Bulletproof now.
I used a small C-clamp with electrical tape padding both sides then slipped it over the thumb switches on the controller. I also moved the seat forward and wedged a pry bar between the brake pedal and the seat but now that I think about it that's not necessary.
I used a small C-clamp with electrical tape padding both sides then slipped it over the thumb switches on the controller. I also moved the seat forward and wedged a pry bar between the brake pedal and the seat but now that I think about it that's not necessary.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 101
Likes: 5
With the trailer all connected up put the trailer wheels in the air and actuate the brake controller (with the truck key on of course) and try to spin the tires. If one doesn't spin there's the problem. I'll bet the connection to one of the brakes is open or intermittent. Wiggle wires on both sides. If the brake wires are terminated at the brake plates with "scotch locks" that's the first place to look. I cut out those junk connectors and recrimped with butt shrinks with die electric grease stuffed inside then shrink tubed over all of that. Bulletproof now.
I used a small C-clamp with electrical tape padding both sides then slipped it over the thumb switches on the controller. I also moved the seat forward and wedged a pry bar between the brake pedal and the seat but now that I think about it that's not necessary.
I used a small C-clamp with electrical tape padding both sides then slipped it over the thumb switches on the controller. I also moved the seat forward and wedged a pry bar between the brake pedal and the seat but now that I think about it that's not necessary.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 47
I think he was suggesting that you hook up the trailer to test the brake wiring in case that was the cause of the issue when then trailer wasn't connected (ie: bad wiring may be sending the false message)
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Given that you know it is the controller itself, check the connections on the back or replace it.
Steve
Steve
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2017
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I would prefer to fix it if possible. Its $550 to buy a replacement
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Upper penninsula
There's a u tube video in which a guy found a broken solder joint on the slider switch.
There's also someone on eBay and some other sites who sells a remanufacturing service to repair controllers that show a fault code. Cost is $99.
I suspect it may be the same repair.
I spent several hours on the web trying to find a solution to why my controller works when squeezing the tabs manually, but is largely ineffective when braking normally, even when set at max gain. There are threads in many forums going back to 2005, but no definitive solution. ( the fault issue came up several times in my search for a solution to my own issue).
There's also someone on eBay and some other sites who sells a remanufacturing service to repair controllers that show a fault code. Cost is $99.
I suspect it may be the same repair.
I spent several hours on the web trying to find a solution to why my controller works when squeezing the tabs manually, but is largely ineffective when braking normally, even when set at max gain. There are threads in many forums going back to 2005, but no definitive solution. ( the fault issue came up several times in my search for a solution to my own issue).
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 101
Likes: 5
There's a u tube video in which a guy found a broken solder joint on the slider switch.
There's also someone on eBay and some other sites who sells a remanufacturing service to repair controllers that show a fault code. Cost is $99.
I suspect it may be the same repair.
I spent several hours on the web trying to find a solution to why my controller works when squeezing the tabs manually, but is largely ineffective when braking normally, even when set at max gain. There are threads in many forums going back to 2005, but no definitive solution. ( the fault issue came up several times in my search for a solution to my own issue).
There's also someone on eBay and some other sites who sells a remanufacturing service to repair controllers that show a fault code. Cost is $99.
I suspect it may be the same repair.
I spent several hours on the web trying to find a solution to why my controller works when squeezing the tabs manually, but is largely ineffective when braking normally, even when set at max gain. There are threads in many forums going back to 2005, but no definitive solution. ( the fault issue came up several times in my search for a solution to my own issue).
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