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Coolant Flush

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Old May 25, 2017 | 02:49 PM
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Coolant Flush

I have an 1985 6.9 IDI non-turbo, and am preparing for a coolant flush. Do I need to do it like my 6.0 with distilled, and do I really need to remove the thermostat like I saw in a few videos? Thanks in advance
 
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Old May 25, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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Whenever I do a flush, I drain the radiator, block plugs (both sides), and rear heater core circuit (I have the full size van, you don't have to worry about that). Be sure to drain the block. It can contain over a gallon of fluid that won't come out with just opening the radiator petcock.

If you want a cheap way to extract your male square head block plugs, check out this link i made a while ago. I would recommend installing a petcock in each side of the block while you got this out. The plugs are horrible and spray coolant all over your frame and engine bay. I installed one of these on each side to make it super easy, and I can stick a 2' long heater hose on the nib to let the coolant run directly into a pan. https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/455/=17s6nmh





If you already haven't done it, you can install a heater core coolant flush tee to make the flush easier. It allows you to flush with a garden hose.

I flush the whole system once or twice depending on the condition of the coolant.

drain the block and radiator again. This would be a great time to install a NAPA coolant filter system if you have time. If not, move on to finishing it up.

Fill the block with distilled to do a distilled flush. Even if you drain the tap water out of your block and radiator, there is still hidden pockets of tap water in the circuit. A distilled flush will dilute the tap water down to a minimal level. Drain the distilled from the block and radiator.

Then refill with Fleetcharge 50/50 or comparable coolant with SCA's. If you have the NAPA filter system, you can buy pre-charged SCA filters to do the recharge for you. I typically just use non-SCA filters on my filterhead, and use new fleetcharge instead. Both work fine.


The only time I ever pulled the t-stat was when I had the oil-in-coolant cracked block issue, and I ran some L-11 Emulsifier thru the circuit to clear out the oil. Pulling the t-stat allowed the emulsifier to flow throughout the system freely. For the general flush, you can keep your t-stat installed.
 
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Old May 25, 2017 | 03:56 PM
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tassmannn
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Originally Posted by genscripter
Whenever I do a flush, I drain the radiator, block plugs (both sides), and rear heater core circuit (I have the full size van, you don't have to worry about that). Be sure to drain the block. It can contain over a gallon of fluid that won't come out with just opening the radiator petcock.

If you want a cheap way to extract your male square head block plugs, check out this link i made a while ago. I would recommend installing a petcock in each side of the block while you got this out. The plugs are horrible and spray coolant all over your frame and engine bay. I installed one of these on each side to make it super easy, and I can stick a 2' long heater hose on the nib to let the coolant run directly into a pan. https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/455/=17s6nmh





If you already haven't done it, you can install a heater core coolant flush tee to make the flush easier. It allows you to flush with a garden hose.

I flush the whole system once or twice depending on the condition of the coolant.

drain the block and radiator again. This would be a great time to install a NAPA coolant filter system if you have time. If not, move on to finishing it up.

Fill the block with distilled to do a distilled flush. Even if you drain the tap water out of your block and radiator, there is still hidden pockets of tap water in the circuit. A distilled flush will dilute the tap water down to a minimal level. Drain the distilled from the block and radiator.

Then refill with Fleetcharge 50/50 or comparable coolant with SCA's. If you have the NAPA filter system, you can buy pre-charged SCA filters to do the recharge for you. I typically just use non-SCA filters on my filterhead, and use new fleetcharge instead. Both work fine.


The only time I ever pulled the t-stat was when I had the oil-in-coolant cracked block issue, and I ran some L-11 Emulsifier thru the circuit to clear out the oil. Pulling the t-stat allowed the emulsifier to flow throughout the system freely. For the general flush, you can keep your t-stat installed.
Is there any reason to use a coolant cleaner to clean system first? Also, why do you suggest a coolant filter? I know I needed it for my 6.0 prior to putting a bulletproof external oil cooler since particles kept clogging the OEM oil cooler, but why on the older 6.9?
 
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Old May 25, 2017 | 05:11 PM
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I wouldn't use a coolant cleaner in my system. Just a personal preference. The paths in the oil cooler and heater cores are small, and I'm worried running a cleaner will break up particles that could potentially clog those components. Maybe other guys have different feelings about that, but I just don't do it.

I suggest a coolant filter because other particles occupy the coolant system all the time. My first filter was clogged pretty bad, and even my second one too. There are particles in the block that stay there for years, so a filter head is a prudent installation. It is isn't completely necessary, but I did notice a difference in my coolant when I ran it.

You'd be surprised how heavy your filter can get after a few tens of thousands of miles.
 
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Old May 25, 2017 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by genscripter
I wouldn't use a coolant cleaner in my system. Just a personal preference. The paths in the oil cooler and heater cores are small, and I'm worried running a cleaner will break up particles that could potentially clog those components. Maybe other guys have different feelings about that, but I just don't do it.

I suggest a coolant filter because other particles occupy the coolant system all the time. My first filter was clogged pretty bad, and even my second one too. There are particles in the block that stay there for years, so a filter head is a prudent installation. It is isn't completely necessary, but I did notice a difference in my coolant when I ran it.

You'd be surprised how heavy your filter can get after a few tens of thousands of miles.
OK...sold on the filter and no cleaning I put a Sinister on my 6.0. What brand did you you use? Sinister does make a universal one
 
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Old May 25, 2017 | 06:51 PM
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I installed this one: Wix 24019 Napa 4019 Diesel Coolant Filter Mounting Base Head & Napa 4070 Filter | eBay
 
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