Hey everyone,

I have just purchased an old van, 1984 e150. it has 155,000km on the odometer and seems to be in reasonable shape for its age. It has a few issues which i don't think should be too big of issues. My wife and i are hoping to use it to do some camping in (mostly use it just to sleep in) and i can also use it to tow a trailer and boat since i don't have a truck.

I'm making this thread to document issues i have with the vehicle and the work i complete on it. I will ask questions here and might even post a few pictures.

please feel free to comment and advise, i'm new to vehicles of this era and learning as i go!

 

I currently have 3 issues that need to be dealt with.

1: It doesn't run well. It is difficult to cold start, cranks and cranks and cranks. i have only started it a few times and haven't figured out the trick to starting as well as the seller, but it has been well over 15C /60F and it shouldn't be hard to start at those temps. It get easier to start as it warms up and when it is at operating temp it starts almost instantly. It also doesn't like small throttle openings or fast throttle openings. It stumbles when trying to slowly accelerate from a stop up to 70km/h or so, but if i slowly give it more throttle it will get up and go. Giving it fast throttle just causes it to stall. I have filled the tank with premium and added a can of seafoam to it and it has helped it accelerate better, but hasn't changed the cold start or fast throttle issue. I don't count on seafoam fixing the poor running issues.

2. Front right brake caliper sticks. Found this out when i was driving it after i trailered it home. I had a few people in the van, we smelled something hot and when we got stopped there was smoke coming from that wheel. I figured that it was a stuck caliper so i took it off and sure enough the piston didn't want to move. It wasn't to hard to free, and I worked it back and forth a few times. I test drove the van taking it to my buddies after reassembling and it seemed to be fine, that wheel was no more than warm when i got there. On the way home i suspected it was sticking again, and when i checked the wheel it was hot. I am hoping to pick up some remanufactured calipers today to replace the ones on the van and not have to deal with this issue for a while. The pads and rotors look okay so i won't bother replacing them since they will last for years with the mileage i will put on the van, unless something else comes up.

3. After i had the van loaded up we noticed the rear fuel tank has a hole in it. Someone tried to steal gas from it when the previous owner was storing it and punctured the bottom. I'm sure they were please to find rancid fuel. I have a trailer that was a 1987 (i think) f150 and am thinking the rear tank from it might fit the van. I know the vans frames were slightly different so i will have to look close/measure and figure out of it will work for sure.

Thats all for now, thanks for reading!

 

I have a 1985 and 1988 e150. both of them had sat for some time before I bought them. Both had to have new fuel tanks and sending units. The 85 ran when I got it but quit one day like it had ran out of gas. I added 3 gallons and it started right back up. Later it quit right after I filled it up. It turned out to be the pick up tube on the sending unit and of course the tank was full of rust so i replaced everything. the 88 was the same way.
Also change the rubber fuel lines and filter at the carb. The older rubber fuel lines are not Ethanol rated. After driving mine a while I found the lines to be soft and gooey inside. Flush the steel lines while you have the rubber lines off on both ends, they may have rust inside them. I added an extra filter at the fuel pump rubber line. the one at the carb is very small.
I also wound up replacing the fuel pump because the rubber diaphragm started leaking, it had dried out too. no telling what your carb looks like inside. once you start running the Ethanol gas, it will loosen any rust that might be in the system as well as any non ethanol rubber parts. If you rebuild the carb, they make a ethanol rated kit.. I bought a rebuilt carb for my 85 and then learned about the ethanol. I sent a email to the carb company but never got a reply back as to wither it had a ethanol kit in it or not...
Do you have a 2barrel carb?

I also had a sticking caliper on my 88. Took the caliper apart and it had a rusted spot inside where it had sat in one place so I replaced both calipers. shortly after a rear wheel cylinder started leaking so I replaced them both.. Also clean, inspect, and repack or replace the front wheel bearings because the grease has probably dried and they will go bad if you don't.

I pulled the drive shaft and took it to a drive shaft shop near here because he was only $10 more then just buying the U-joints, they had dried out too.

BE sure to check those front end parts too.. Flush out all the old fluids. Brake, power steering, antifreeze, rear axle, and transmission fluid. I found some rust inside my rear axle housing tube when i replaced the rear wheel bearings from where it had sat. You should have a Ford 9" rear axle and they are fairly simple to take apart without having to mess with setting up the gears. The whole gear comes out in one piece once you remove the axles. I took mine out and cleaned the housing before I put the new axle bearings back in.

 

Thanks for that, lots of good information! I was planning to changers all the fluids before long here as well.

The air cleaner convert says 5.8 go 4v info it so if that is correct it is a 4bbl. I have not confined that though.

I picked up some remanufactured calipers after work and put them on this evening but didn't have time to take it for a drive. I also took the rear wheels and drums off to check the rear brake shoes as I think the drivers side one squeals. Both sides have pad material and are not in need of changing yet.

when I got home from work I noticed a wet spot under the front of the van, I checked it and it seems to be coolant. I didn't notice the temp at the end of my drive yesterday but I know the temp gauge showed it was fine just a short while before I got home. I wondered if the rad cap was faulty as it boiled over after I shut it off, but it is dry all aid the rad cap. Any other common coolant leak areas over these motors I should check?

 

No leaks on my two. I did have the thermostats to stick on both and wound up replacing them. I also took the radiator out of the 88 and had the local shop to vat and rod it out $100.. the 85 radiator is fine so I guess allot has to do with how well the PO maintained it.

Common leaks for one that has sat might be cap and overflow tank system, if it has one. loose hose or water pump... I would change the hoses out just because they are old and you don't want one to blow and ruin a trip. You don't have to do them all at once. I would defiantly flush the radiator and replace the bottom hose and thermostat. Change the bypass hose while you do the thermostat. I think the 351 thermostat is much easier to replace then on the 302 engine which I have.

Here are a couple of other tests you might want to do..
check the timing chain.

Combustion gas test to check head gaskets.. You can get this tool from any auto parts store as a loaner tool. I checked both of my van s right after I bought them before I did any other work..

If you are going to do a tune up or just check the spark plugs, pick up a loaner tool compression gauge and do a compression check while you have the plugs out. That will tell you the general condition of the engine.

Another simple test to check general condition of the engine is a vacuum test. Here is an excellent article with examples of what the readings mean
How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

You can also use the vacuum gauge to adjust the carb...

Do you have a 4 speed overdrive transmission or 3 speed auto? the 3 speed would be a C6, great transmission..

 

Thanks for that information! I was planing to do a flush of the cooling system, that would be the first step in diagnosing the coolant leak.

I did have a compression tester and a leak down tester. The leak down tester should help me figure out if there are head gasket issues, is that what you are thinking about with the combustion had tester?

I can't say for sure what trans is in the van, I'm guessing the 4 speed overdrive. I can't confirm that yet though. I will look up pictures to see what the 2 look like and confirm.
*edit: it is an auto, does that mean it is a c6? or is the 4 speed also an auto?

I will hopefully soon check the timing chain. I'm surprised how quietly the engine runs though. It doesn't have quiet mufflers and that might mask a bit of engine noise though. But I do have a question, is there anything I the valvetrain that needs adjusting? I doubt a thread where some said valves are adjustable, some said rockers are adjustable and others said nothing is adjustable. So I don't know what to believe.

 

The leak down tester is a much better test then the compression test and yes it can help diagnose a head gasket, leaking valves, and compression rings.

The combustion gas tester is used at the radiator and will tell you if you are getting ANY combustion gas back into the cooling system. The difference in using the Combustion gas tester verses the leak down or compression tester is that the combustion gas tester is done while the engine is running and the engine is up to operating temperature. Some head gasket leaks, at first, do not appear till the cylinder heads are hot.
All of the suggestions are just fairly simple tests that will give you an overall condition of your engine. My mom has a 1978 van with a 351 in it and has 190k on it. The only thing we have ever done to it was a valve job and timing chain, it runs great and has good oil pressure. IT has a 2 barrel carb that has never been worked on and will start up first try after depressing the gas peddle once. The 4 barrel should do the same.

C6 is a ford 3 speed automatic transmission. It is much stronger then the 4 speed automatic overdrive transmission known as AOD = Automatic Overdrive. There is a few miles per gallon loss with the 3 speed C6 but it is a much better transmission especially if you will be towing with the van. The 4 speed AOD transmission is also a good transmission but needs to have a transmission fluid cooler that should be mounted in front of the AC condenser. It should have come from the factory with that. Many people change the factory cooler out for a larger one if they are towing heavy loads. Both of my vans have the AOD transmission. If you have the AOD, it is best to keep the shiftier in regular D = drive when around town and only use the over drive when on the highway. In town it will be shifting in and out of overdrive quite a bit.
You can look at the transmission oil pan and tell what transmission you have. here is a thread with the diagram of how to tell.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ission-id.html

As to adjusting valves, I do not know. I do remember when we had the heads off of the 1978 351 windsor engine in my moms 78, there was no adjustment.

Here is a post that says no, the valves are not adjustable. apparently the Chilton's manual can be misread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ton-blows.html

If for some reason you do take the valve covers off and want to do some work with them off, If you remove the rocker arms, keep the parts in order for each cylinder, DO NOT mix them up as each one has its own wear pattern.
IF you find a bunch of oil sludge build up under the valve covers, it can be removed but you probably have just as much under the intake below at the lifters... To clean the top of the cylinder heads you would need to remove the rocker arms and push rods being sure to keep every part in order along with the direction the push rods come out. Plug holes in the cylinder head so that no dirt or cleaner will drop down in the engine. I used a vacuum and scraper keeping the hose right where I was working. After scraping and gently wire brushing everything i could reach, I used rags with kerosene to wipe it down and then sprayed it off with carb cleaner. That came out really good.
But if you were going into it that far I would also change the valve stem seals...

If the engine is running smooth and quiet and not smoking when you first start it up, i would just leave it alone. My mothers 78 had allot of sludge build up because she is old and only drives very short trips and the engine doesn't warm up to temp. That will cause sludge build up.

 

I hear you on the combustion leak test, it can show things that the leakdown test can't. i have my fingers crossed that there are no head gasket issues and the coolant leak is something else!

Thanks for the link on identifying the transmission. I will check for sure tonight but i think it is a c6 trans. i looked at a few pictures on google and thought reckognised a few things about the body of the transmission, but can't say with confidence right now.

I have a question for you guys about the air intake. The intake is behind the passenger headlight and it goes through a tube with a diaphragm looking device with a small hose running somewhere (i didn't follow it), through a flexible hose and into the carb intake. 1:what is the diaphram looking device and where does the hose go and 2: the flexible tubing going to the carb is in awful condition, will that affect running?

thanks guys!

 

I have a ford CD manual for my 85 and it should be very close to your 84. Later today i will look it up for you. If the diaphragm device is what I think you are talking about, it is vacuum operated device that opens and closes a flapper inside the metal rectangle tube on the air cleaner housing. You should also have a round metal flexible tube, maybe 2" in diameter that goes from a bottom opening on the metal rectangle part of the air cleaner housing that connects to a heat shield that covers the right exhaust manifold.
When the engine is cold, the damper closes when the engine starts. This forces the intake air to be pulled through the 2" round metal tube going to the exhaust manifold. The air from the exhaust manifold is heated air and helps the choke to open as well as adds warmer air to the intake for fuel mixture.
When the engine warms up, the damper/flapper opens and allows fresh outside temperature air to enter the air filter housing. I hope this makes sense. The vacuum line is connected to a (cant think of the name of the part) temperature controlled vacuum switch that opens once the engine has warmed up.

I remember this from my 85 which has a part missing that changes from the rectangle to round!

 

Yes, that sounds like what i'm talking about. I will have to look again but i think the tube running to the exhaust manifold area is missing. That may have an effect on the cool starting issue. So many things to check already!

 

I highly recommend you invest in a Ford manual as well as the EVTM manual. Tehy will provide you with much needed info, much better then a Haynes manual.. The diagram i am going to share with you came out of my 85 manual...

Here is a good price on a EVTM (Electrical, Vacuum, troubleshooting manual)
1984 Ford Econoline Van Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting | eBay
$10.00
Service-Manual-EVTM/391780802464?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkpa rms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3 D40130%26meid%3D60f9e9c20c7d47ee80db900427bb95c7%2 6pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3816795030 39

And here is the Ford Shop Manual on CD for $30.00
I like the books better but i have the cd’s because they are much much cheaper. It takes a little learning to use the cd but they have all the info and you can print the pages.
FORD 1984 Bronco, Econoline E150-E350 & F150-F350 Pick Up Truck Shop Manual CD | eBay

Here is an example from the ford manual on cd. this is listed a s 1985 E150 - E250 with a 5.0 engine. I did not see the 351 in my manual but they this should be very simular.


This picture below I believe is a 460 engine diagram. I did not see the 351 listed in my 85 manual but this will give you a good idea what is in the manual..

 

Thanks for the links. I took my time removing the carb before supper, had no idea there were that many vacuum lines there! That is convincing enough to get an evtm!

previous owner claimed to have had the carb rebuilt a year ago and had the van sitting since. Judging by the look of the carb eternally and in the bores I would be surprised if it had been recently rebuilt, but I will be pulling it apart to verify and clean if necessary.

 

For some reason i got suspicious that the egr valve wasn't working. I had a few minutes after work today so i took it off and did a quick test.


While i had the valve off i depressed the diaphragm and held my finger over the vacuum port. When i released the diaphragm it popped up almost like there was nothing on the vacuum port. I am going to assume that is a big vacuum leak and failed egr valve, just like the video above states unless someone can tell me that these egr systems operate differently than what is typical and in the video.

edit: Also I purchased a shop manual cd off ebay, should be here in a week and a bit. It says it has an EVTM on it so i didn't get the paper copy of the evtm. hopefully that will answer my questions and help me understand the workings of this van!

 

sounds like a bad EGR to me. Check the new one before you leave the store. I bought one that was bad!
Good deal on the manual. As i said earlier, the cd's are allot different from thumbing through a book so it took a little getting used to..

The EGR might just solve your problems......

 

I'm looking forward to having that cd and the ability to read through information (factory information!) and figure out what everything is and how things work. This vacuum system is far more complicated than i imagined. Forums are great for this kind of information but a person really has to search and sift through information and take everything with a grain of salt, as with anything else online. Comparing online information and experiences with factory information should make diagnosing more sure. I have found a few capped off vacuum lines since i've been digging into this van/carb so i'm hoping to figure out what they are. One thing at a time though.

A friend and i bought a project boat at the same time i got the van. The boat has a 351W engine as well, i dream of that vacuum system on this van!

I think i will try to reinstall the carb on the van and plug the egr vacuum line and see if that changes starting, idle and low throttle operation. I won't try anything high speed or big throttle openings as i understand that can induce pinging.