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So, just purchased a new to me 2003 in my sig. Would like to replace spark plugs and boots/springs.
Looking at the engine. the 6 plugs closest to radiator don't look to bad in terms of access. The rearmost 4 (2 on each side) look like the are almost inaccesible by a ratchet, extension, and socket.
Can any of you provide tips, strategies on hhow to replace all 10 plugs, boots/springs?
1. What steps do you take to prepare (besides the 2-3 cold ones to get started!
2. What parts need to be removed to access all plugs and COPs, i.e., Air cleaner box, wiring, etc?
3. What other advice can you offer on the plug changing?
Having different sizes of extensions and a universal joint come in handy when changing the plugs. In my experience, all I have removed to get to the cops and plugs is the intake tubing. You do have to wade your way through the wires and hoses to get to the rear plugs. Unplug the cop of the plug you're working on, blow the hole out with compressed air and pull the plug.
There are a lot of threads with different opinions on the plug torque. I have owned many modular motors and have never used a torque wrench when changing plugs and have had no issues. I do use anti-seize. I also re- torque the plugs every year, if I'm not replacing them.
A tip on installing new plugs. I attach a piece of vacuum line to a screwdriver. Put the tip of the plug in the hose and use the screwdriver to start the plug. Helps prevent cross threading and also dropping plugs in the hole unintentionally.
Hope this helps a little. Let us know how it goes.
A few beers might not be a bad idea it will limber you up a bit. Find some padding or old blanket folded up to lay on top of the grill and across the core support and save your back. The back plugs you do by feel I did the passenger side first driver side was easy I did like you said and took out the intake nothing else needs to come out. Make sure you have a good spark plug socket and a 6"-8" extension and a 3/8" torque wrench and start each plug by hand to avoid cross threading. On the back ones on the passenger side you have to put the socket and extension in the plug well then put the ratchet on. It's not a hard job the biggest thing is to take your time. And blow out the plug wells with compressed air before starting to loosen the plugs you won't believe how much crap comes out of there.
What intake tubing are you referring to? Is it completely removed?
Is the rubber insert on a spark plug wrench (for holding spark plugs) a good option or is the vacuum tubing and screwdriver preferred?
An issue I had recently with a spark plug socket with a very snug fitting rubber core.
Changed the plugs on my 2004 Sequoia and it was a breeze..used a quality spark plug socket with a rubber insert in socket that held the plug so well, when I went to remove socket and extension, the socket stayed attached to plug! Had to remove plug and use a different socket that held plug less firm.
fordmerc....is your 2003 a 4X2 or 4X4? I ask because of your leveling kit. Never heard of a leveling kit for a Twin I Beam front suspension. Be nice to level out my 4X2.
Usually the COP connectors will come right off when the latch on the bottom is depressed.
Don't wiggle them to get the connector off.
I think I broke one of the COP connector bases doing that.
If the connector doesn't come right off try pushing in slightly to give the catch room to clear the case.
R&T......I found a post of yours where you included an image of a 2V 6.8L Head with the improved design (more/deeper spark plug threads.
Your explanation stated that head with the "6.8L PI", below casting numbers, are the improved design.
So, I just went outside, in the dark here 9pm Pacific, and looked for the numbers on my heads. After a few minutes I found them peeking through tye passenger side wheel well. Can not see them from the top of engine. They are inverted downwards on tat section of head.
Here is my pic...
My hopes are that my heads are the improved design with the so called 8 threads/deeper threads.
According to a previous post, the new designed head was not in place until No. 2003. My build date on the door jamb sticker states 10/02. I thought I was SOL.
So does these numbers confirm I have the new/improved head design with 8/deeper spark plug threads? If so......
I read one of your posts #12 in the link below, that says you have a 2002 V10 with 8 threads on a PI head. Is your engine factory original or a later model installed (late 2003+)?
I keep reading the change did not occur until 11/02 which would be early 2003 models. My build date (door jamb sticker is 10/02). I guess the only true way to know will be when I replace the plugs. Perhaps I am SOL!!
I read one of your posts #12 in the link below, that says you have a 2002 V10 with 8 threads on a PI head. Is your engine factory original or a later model installed (late 2003+)? ...
I was wrong about the number of spark plug hole threads in my engine.
I was still in the learning curve and thought that "PI" included the 8 thread castings.
You probably have the 4 thread heads and you are not "SOL".
There are many 10s of thousands of these heads on the road and a very small percentage have a problem blowing a plug.
All the 4.6, 5.4 & 6.8s have the same 4 thread heads until late 2002.
The factory torque was 13 or 15 ft/lbs which is light.
The plugs will last for 100k and many are run that long with no problems.
Most of the reports I've seen of blown plugs happen between 100-140k or so.
If the plugs were torqued to 25 ft/lbs every 40-50k there probably would never be a blown plug with these heads.
For future reference, always check the tech sticky at the top of this forum, specifically this post when it comes to how many spark plug threads your heads have: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post9356348
PI vs. non-PI had nothing to do with the thread count.
On my junk 2001 2V V10 motor I got over 50 ft lbs on a anti-siezed coated plug before the threads gave out.
Fewer threads might allow the plug to back out easier but in my opinion are not the reason for plug blow out.
Retorquing annually to at least 25 ft lbs should prevent most blow outs, even in 2002+ versions.
3v motors had issues with plug removAL because of the spark plug design. I have never had to deal with a broken plug in a 2V. The just come out like all "normal" plugs. Sometimes I think people confuse 3v plug issues with 2v issues.
On a 2V just take out old plugs and put new ones in, and torque to 25 ft lbs.
R&T.....Great news on not occurring as often as I thought! I guess I am not SOL!
I am concerned about torquing to 22-25ft/lb and striping the very few factory threads that exist, especially not knowing their condition....are they fragile, corroded, etc.
Krewat....Thanks for the tip on the Tech sticky....my questions about thread count arose from the post that 8 threads were found on a 2002 6.8L. After clarification from R&T, the confusion has been cleared up.
I am still learning the 6.8L world and where to find things. I was accustomed to the OBS forum and the 7.5L and this is whole new learning curve with the V10. Plug changing on my 460 was a piece of cake. This appears much more involved on the 6.8L and extreme caution must be taken when removing and installing plugs.
Thanks for the continued assistance, it is much appreciated!!!
Considering my engine has only 62K miles, I have been told by some mechanics to leave them alone if there are no problems.
Since I don't have the service history on the vehicle, I wanted to change them for piece of mind, change boots/springs, and to be sure anti-seize and torque are set properly.
NOTE: My owners manual calls for Motocraft AGSF-22W Platinum plugs. I see a difference in the last two letters on suggested plugs for a 2003 V10. Is there a newer plug recommended by Ford? A TSB on a new plug?
fordmerc....is your 2003 a 4X2 or 4X4? I ask because of your leveling kit. Never heard of a leveling kit for a Twin I Beam front suspension. Be nice to level out my 4X2.
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I do use anti-seize. I also re- torque the plugs every year, if I'm not replacing them.
