2003 V10 Spark Plug Replacement - Questions
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Considering my engine has only 62K miles, I have been told by some mechanics to leave them alone if there are no problems.
Since I don't have the service history on the vehicle, I wanted to change them for piece of mind, change boots/springs, and to be sure anti-seize and torque are set properly.
NOTE: My owners manual calls for Motocraft AGSF-22W Platinum plugs. ...
Since I don't have the service history on the vehicle, I wanted to change them for piece of mind, change boots/springs, and to be sure anti-seize and torque are set properly.
NOTE: My owners manual calls for Motocraft AGSF-22W Platinum plugs. ...
Just because they're running fine doesn't mean they're not working loose.
As a minimum the plugs should be retorqued at least every 40-50k.
I change mine at 50k, use nickel anti-seize, grease the boots and torque to 25 ft/lbs.
What's it cost - $60 for parts (SP-479) and 1 1/2 hr?
Haven't had any misfires or other issues.
It's a good time to check out vacuum hoses and look for leaks, too.
I'd change your plugs/boots now and do them again at 100k to get back in sync with an easy to remember 50k interval.
At 100k you're probably going to need some vacuum hoses.
On ours at 104k the factory shocks were long gone, 2 tie rod ends were worn out, the PCV hose was really soft and a new IAC smoothed out the idle.
Everything else is original.
We tow a 7k TH and have installed F-250 rear springs, Hellwig front/rear anti-roll bars, load range E tires and larger trans coolers.
The most noticeable change was the rear anti-roll bar and not just for towing.
It makes a huge handling improvement on turns and crosswinds.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 33
R&T.....your explanation on plugs is exactly my plan!
1. Are you using dialectric grease on end of boot that goes over spark plug?
2. I was thinking of using the permatex aluminum anti seize. Any particular reason for the nickle based?
3. I was planning on a 6 hour job for my first time (with 0 problems). I would think that #4,5 and #9,10 are going to take two-three hours alone! They are WAY back there!!! Should I plan on an all day deal seeing its my first time doing it on a 6.8L?
Thanks!
1. Are you using dialectric grease on end of boot that goes over spark plug?
2. I was thinking of using the permatex aluminum anti seize. Any particular reason for the nickle based?
3. I was planning on a 6 hour job for my first time (with 0 problems). I would think that #4,5 and #9,10 are going to take two-three hours alone! They are WAY back there!!! Should I plan on an all day deal seeing its my first time doing it on a 6.8L?
Thanks!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
1. Yes
2. No, I needed to buy some and someone said it was better for aluminum.
3. I split mine over 2 days, about 2 hrs each side. The driver's side is really not that bad, so do it first. The air filter/MAF tube to the throttle body and some hoses are all that has to be removed. #5 is the interesting one. I changed all 10 without having to move much. But, some of the vacuum lines were getting old so I spent 5 or 6 hours over a week playing with the passenger side and the results are in the pic. A set of GearWrench Tools KDT41740 spark plug sockets and a set of wobble extensions from Harbor Freight help a lot.
2. No, I needed to buy some and someone said it was better for aluminum.
3. I split mine over 2 days, about 2 hrs each side. The driver's side is really not that bad, so do it first. The air filter/MAF tube to the throttle body and some hoses are all that has to be removed. #5 is the interesting one. I changed all 10 without having to move much. But, some of the vacuum lines were getting old so I spent 5 or 6 hours over a week playing with the passenger side and the results are in the pic. A set of GearWrench Tools KDT41740 spark plug sockets and a set of wobble extensions from Harbor Freight help a lot.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 33
great, thank for the pic and explanation.
I used a rubber core socket on my sequoia and it was so tight on plug it did not pull out after I tightened and went to remove socket! socket stayed on plug. Had to remove plug and used a different socket.
This magnetic socket should solve the problem....firm enough to hold plug but not too firm so as to stay attached to plug upon removal. Great idea!
I used a rubber core socket on my sequoia and it was so tight on plug it did not pull out after I tightened and went to remove socket! socket stayed on plug. Had to remove plug and used a different socket.
This magnetic socket should solve the problem....firm enough to hold plug but not too firm so as to stay attached to plug upon removal. Great idea!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
I think a couple still need an extension.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 3
From: California Desert
For those that change the plugs without a torque wrench, how do you judge how tight? Fully seated plus 1/4 turn? This will be the first vehicle I've owned that didn't have crush washers integral to the plugs. Also, in my experience, Denso makes the absolute best plugs, but I've read the V10 can be picky and prefers Motorcraft...
Sorry to thread hijack, OP. Figured it would be good info to have sorted out.
Sorry to thread hijack, OP. Figured it would be good info to have sorted out.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,762
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
For those that change the plugs without a torque wrench, how do you judge how tight?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 3
From: California Desert
I have a torque wrench, but it's a 1/2" drive that goes from 20 - 150. Not suitable for the spark plugs. I guess I'll break down and get a 3/8" drive.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,107
Likes: 3
From: California Desert
Click style torque wrenches lose accuracy at the lowest end of their scale. If I'm already over-torquing to 20, I'd hate to be off by another 10%, although I'm 90% certain my heads are the long thread versions.