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I know this topic has been covered...I've done my research and reading. This message just displayed on my truck at 42xxx miles. I want to do the test myself (lack of faith in the dealerships) so just want to make sure I have done my research properly...
I will need to do 3 test procedures correct?
1. Coolant Concentrate (freeze points) - using a refractometer Robinair 75240
Top off with Ford Specialty Orange Engine Coolant if needed. Add Ford Specialty Orange Engine Coolant Revitalizer VC12 if needed.
Do I have all the tests covered above with the right tools/test kits?
I do this to both the primary and secondary cooling systems correct?
The dealership said they would charge $19.95 +tax for the test. Much cheaper than purchasing all the test tools/kits above, but I fear they may not be testing it properly or thoroughly.
The documentation is poor, and the dealership is likely clueless.
'needing to add revitalizer' (corrosion inhibitor) is likely what you want to know but may be confused as 'contamination' (or lack there of) in older revisions of acustrips docs. Yes do both systems. If no one has touched your truck you don't need to test for contaminates. Its a mess, good luck.
Organic acid Carboxylate was a contaminate for older generation of vehicles, and is now the corrosion inhibitor (or lack there of, it is not clear if you test for carboxylate itself or if it is the byproduct of the corrosion inhibitor when it is depleted). So the same test has a new purpose. use documentation from web not those in the box. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16864125
So to test 'corrosion inhibitor' you need:
2. ELC Contamination Test - using Acustrip Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC
I have been doing a lot of reading am I not finding the answer: When putting in new coolant after a flush, is VC-12 required with the new coolant? Or just when a test fails after 15k miles? Lets just assume the flush was very thorough.
Have any of you used Zerex DEX-COOL Orange OAT coolant and used the test strips to ensure it has sufficient Carboxylate present out of the box?
I have been doing a lot of reading am I not finding the answer: When putting in new coolant after a flush, is VC-12 required with the new coolant? Or just when a test fails after 15k miles? Lets just assume the flush was very thorough.
Have any of you used Zerex DEX-COOL Orange OAT coolant and used the test strips to ensure it has sufficient Carboxylate present out of the box?
Do a very thorough flush of both cooling systems with DISTILLED water.... because you don't want any minerals in the water.
Flush at least 2-3 times. I went thru nearly 30 gallons of distilled water.
Then use the new Ford YELLOW coolant that no longer requires additives.
I got it at the local Ford dealer for about $22 a gallon.
Takes 5-6 gallons of the concentrated stuff, not the pre-diluted stuff. Top off with distilled water.
Hi, just read your thread. I flushed and used yellow coolant and thought what you said was correct, Truck is a 2014. Are you 100% sure that yellow requires no additives? I ask because I can't find my reference and at my advanced age I do not trust my memory, lol
Hi, just read your thread. I flushed and used yellow coolant and thought what you said was correct, Truck is a 2014. Are you 100% sure that yellow requires no additives? I ask because I can't find my reference and at my advanced age I do not trust my memory, lol
I didn't get to my primary system this year, so i just bought a bottle of the revitalizer for the orange from Motorcraft and dumped it in for winter.
Going to do a flush next year, but thinking of replacing some stuff because I'll have the system flushed and ready to go for at least another 100k miles. Bought a case of one gallon Motorcraft yellow from the dealer... of course there will be a thread involved.
Nah... no hassle... just accepting the price of admission of owning a paid off 16 that I Don't need but love owning... over 131k miles now so I want to upgrade the engine oil cooler to either SPEs or Bullet Proof Diesels since the system will be empty or close... plus a few other things, maybe. Might say eff it and more than likely do a prinary thermostat and coolant hoses. But I'm overkill, not an overlord.
Do a very thorough flush of both cooling systems with DISTILLED water.... because you don't want any minerals in the water.
Flush at least 2-3 times. I went thru nearly 30 gallons of distilled water.
Then use the new Ford YELLOW coolant that no longer requires additives.
I got it at the local Ford dealer for about $22 a gallon.
Takes 5-6 gallons of the concentrated stuff, not the pre-diluted stuff. Top off with distilled water.
This is what I did. Drained and filled with distilled water 4 times before final fill. Does take some time for each drive cycle to get the system heated back up. I have a OBD reader and never monitored the secondary cooling system until this time. The primary cooling system runs around 180 degrees if I recall, but the secondary is around 100.