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Dave, the Prodigy P3 I have in my 1/2 ton truck has been absolutely flawless. I had two emergency stops that I had to make and it did great both times. If you were local I would loan my Prodigy to you for testing, but NY is a bit far away.
So far, I'm not seeing any issues with the OEM brake controller in my 2017 F-350.
Dave, the Prodigy P3 I have in my 1/2 ton truck has been absolutely flawless. I had two emergency stops that I had to make and it did great both times. If you were local I would loan my Prodigy to you for testing, but NY is a bit far away.
So far, I'm not seeing any issues with the OEM brake controller in my 2017 F-350.
Thanks Jim. Last fall we could have done the trial while we were in either Colorado Springs, Pagosa Springs or Durango, but ....
I have a P3 and wire adapter on my AMAZON Prime wish list just waiting for a finger push (and my $hip to dock with a few more funds)
Ford's controller is not a true timed controller. If it were, your trailer brakes would continue to increase in strength with time on the brake pedal regardless of pedal pressure. I think what Ford has done is make the onset less "aggressive" in order to increase the likelihood of smooth action at the expense of rapid onset.
I thought that was dealt with on the newest models by setting the action (not strength) using the control panel. I know I can't do it on my 2012.
The P3 is certainly an excellent controller. I have one on my 02 and have nothing bad to say about it. I like the built-in diagnostics as it completely takes away the "wondering what my controller is doing now" syndrome that seems to infect Ford's TBC.
The funny thing is that the FoMoCo controller is made by the same people that make the Prodigy..... BTW, I have used mine since I bought the truck in 2005 and I love it,. Only thing I don't like is that it won't hold the RV to be able to check that the hitch is locked. And don't need that anymore now I have the AUH. (Andersen Ultimate Hitch)
You know I have used a lot of different controllers over the years and really never had a problem with any of them, although I liked some better than others. However, I have never towed really heavy. I wonder if folks who tow more weight have more issues with the controllers.
I've towed conventional bumper pull open and closed car trailers with a variety of vehicles and aftermarket controllers since the late 80's, and have never had issues other than an easily diagnosed cut wire or bad ground.
What's perplexing about the Ford controller is the fact that squeezing the manual control results in braking that will throw you through the windshield, but, even set at max gain, hitting the truck brakes from highway speeds the trailer brake contribution to speed retard approaches nil.
The fifth wheel is, admittedly considerably heavier than my old enclosed car trailer.
My next step will be to try the open car trailer with the F350 to rule out anything with the fifth wheel brakes or wiring (although the fact that the manual application of the brakes being ok pretty much rules out a trailer issue anyway).
As you know, successful manual operation tells you only the circuit to the trailer and the trailer brakes are working. It does not tell you anything about the function of the controller via the pedal.
There IS one way to see if it helping. If you can find an open stretch of road and can safely do it, unhook the cable from the RV to the truck and run it up OVER 20MPH(I would try at least 30) and hit the brakes. Try to figure out how long (seconds) it takes to stop. Then do same thing again with it hooked up normally. If it takes the same time it ain't working right!
From what I see, Ford uses a time delay controller and, if I read the article correctly, it's less them optimal and quite possibly what Finn is seeing and what I think may happening with mine. While I haven't fully 'proven', what, if anything is wrong with mine, a proportional controller may work even better and quite possibly why Hydrastar recommends a Prodigy. In my case, the jury has just been handed the case.
As far as testing, it's probably pretty easy to make up a test rig with a 7 pin female socket, some wires and a decent digital DVM and maybe some sort of load - but that raises the question of once you get a batch of figures, what do they mean? How much braking force (amps) are you producing for a given road speed braking effect and at what foot force (immeasurable = guesstimate) on the brake pedal.
FWIW, in the 110 mile trip we just took, I'm not happy with the Ford controller at this time but with an entirely new brake system, that jury mentioned above will still need to 'vote'. That is unless I just say s@@@@ it and spent the $150 bucks to try a Prodigy with their change over pigtail.
I know that the original poster indicated his truck it a 2011. Yesterday, I purchased a 2009 F350, until I have the actual owner's manual in hand, I downloaded a version last night which is supposed to cover the 250 and F350. That manual provides "Integrated trailer brake controller (if equipped)
Your vehicle may be equipped with a fully integrated electronic Trailer
Brake Controller (TBC). When used properly, the TBC helps ensure
smooth and effective trailer braking by powering the trailer’s electric
brakes with a proportional output based on the towing vehicle’s brake
pressure."
Same system since 05 with a number of tweaks as it evolved. No mystery there. Google "tekonsha brake controller tester" and you will see a picture the tester necessary to answer all the questions. Basically a box full of magnets to emulate your trailer brakes. Plug it in, go for a ride, and work the brakes. As you do that have a friend read the amp draw and voltage that goes to the magnets under various stopping conditions.
I doubt anyone wants to own one given it is seldom required unless you are working on towables professionally, so buy an hour of a dealer's tech's time and get your questions answered.
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