92 ford 302 bore
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92 ford 302 bore
Okay guys l have a 92 ford 302 efi out of a bronco I want to switch the motor from fuel injected to carburated I'm looking at buying a master rebuild kit but aren't sure on what year of kit to buy need help
Also I'm looking at boring it but aren't sure what size the motor is for my mud truck so I'm going to be running high RPM all the time and I want power but don't wanna blow it up that is in advance for the advise
Also I'm looking at boring it but aren't sure what size the motor is for my mud truck so I'm going to be running high RPM all the time and I want power but don't wanna blow it up that is in advance for the advise
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Welcome to FTE.
OK, it's a '92 EFI motor. I'm not sure if that's a roller motor or roller ready. Conanski is the man on the SBF, he may be by with advice.
Going to a carb set up is pretty easy--manifold and carb and either add a fuel pump or go with an electric.
You only bore this engine as much as you need to if at all. You can not add significant displacement via a bore in this or most other engines.
What truck is this going into?
What is your budget?
Define "high rpm".
"Master rebuild kits" are usually made up of standard, substandard, middle of the road or OEM similar pieces. Ok for your daily slogger.
If you are going to run the daylights out of this motor, you will be needing some better parts than a standard grocery getter kit.
But first, back to the "what" questions.
OK, it's a '92 EFI motor. I'm not sure if that's a roller motor or roller ready. Conanski is the man on the SBF, he may be by with advice.
Going to a carb set up is pretty easy--manifold and carb and either add a fuel pump or go with an electric.
You only bore this engine as much as you need to if at all. You can not add significant displacement via a bore in this or most other engines.
What truck is this going into?
What is your budget?
Define "high rpm".
"Master rebuild kits" are usually made up of standard, substandard, middle of the road or OEM similar pieces. Ok for your daily slogger.
If you are going to run the daylights out of this motor, you will be needing some better parts than a standard grocery getter kit.
But first, back to the "what" questions.
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I'm going to be running a 91 ford but with a carb motor and its going in a mid truck so when I'm running the motor is going to be anywhere for 4000 RPM to 6000 RPM and I'm buying a master rebuild kit from "Northern auto parts"
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Stock cam, stock pistons. Your power will peak closer to 4000 rpm and you will be pretty winded by 5500. Your motor will run for a while at 5000+ but you will eventually spit a rod or drop a valve.
If you are going to run a motor like this, you need to upgrade things that move.
Also, that kit is for the older motors, and there were upgrades from the factory, including, maybe, the roller cam. If your motor is a roller or roller ready, you will want a roller cam.
If you are going to run a motor like this, you need to upgrade things that move.
Also, that kit is for the older motors, and there were upgrades from the factory, including, maybe, the roller cam. If your motor is a roller or roller ready, you will want a roller cam.
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I'm buying the upgrade pistons and what not and I have to bug the older model for the cam bc I have to run a older distributor so I need a cam to match can't run a fuel injected cam with a carb distributor
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From: south louisiana
X 2 on this. And as with 85e150, that motor's going to be "all done" by 5000 rpms unless you work the heads (E7's) or get better heads.
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That is a roller motor.
You're wasting your money on that rebuild kit, you'll be replacing all the moving/wear parts and some will be over/undersized so the only thing you should buy before the motor visits the machine shop is gaskets.
Once the machinist tells you what size bearings, pistons and rings it needs, then you buy those and select pistons that will raise compression and have valve reliefs, because to make power at 6000rpm the cam will need lots more lift and duration than stock.
The cam you select is based on the powerband you want but the heads also have to support the airflow the combo will make at that rpms, and that means you need aftermarket heads, stock heads are no good to you.
The stock rotating assembly in this motor isn't half bad but better connecting rods would be a good idea given the use this motor will see, and if you want decent torque then a 347 stroker crank would definitely help, and if you go there then get a fully forged kit.
You're wasting your money on that rebuild kit, you'll be replacing all the moving/wear parts and some will be over/undersized so the only thing you should buy before the motor visits the machine shop is gaskets.
Once the machinist tells you what size bearings, pistons and rings it needs, then you buy those and select pistons that will raise compression and have valve reliefs, because to make power at 6000rpm the cam will need lots more lift and duration than stock.
The cam you select is based on the powerband you want but the heads also have to support the airflow the combo will make at that rpms, and that means you need aftermarket heads, stock heads are no good to you.
The stock rotating assembly in this motor isn't half bad but better connecting rods would be a good idea given the use this motor will see, and if you want decent torque then a 347 stroker crank would definitely help, and if you go there then get a fully forged kit.
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