I snapped off 6 bolts in the block on my flathead (53 8BA) Trying to get the exhaust manifolds off. I successfully removed 5 of the broken bolts by welding a nut on the ends of the bolts and threaded them out. The sixth bolt was broken off flush with the block so I drilled it with a 3/16" bit and then tried to extract with a spiral screw extractor. The screw extractor broke off flush with the block. Bad idea, I should have just drilled and re tapped. So has anyone done this and has a remedy? Engine is in the truck so not much room to work in. Can another hole be drilled and tapped next to existing with matching hole drilled in header flange?

 

Hi,

can you apply heat right in the spot where the screw sits? If this doesn't work or you're not able to grab the remains of the screw or the extractor
you can try to bore it all out, starting with a small borer and working up
to a borer which is still smaller than the thread. This way you should be able to pry out the rest of the screw and extractor piece by piece. It's a pain in the a.. and you must be patient, but it should work.

 

NO, on drilling another hole! I would try welding to the extractor, just building up something to grab onto. Won't be fun...

After you get it out, try putting a washer over the broken bolt, and welding the bolt to that. Then weld a nut to the washer.

 

Thanks for your replies, looks like it is as bad as I thought. I will try to apply heat and maybe build up the area with weld.

 

Hopefully you can get it with heat and welding something to
it to turn it. On the critical equipment the "broke off flush"
stuff we always had to use a metal disintegrator on when
I was in the Navy. (you'd be pulling the engine to do that
level of nonsense....)

Electro Arc 2M-SA Metal Disintegrator w/ Magnetic Base for Portable Operation, T | eBay

 

I've always had to use a cutting torch, CAREFULLY.

 

What a wonderful thing to change my life. Thanks for introducing my to this, never heard of one.

 

I have never used a metal disintegrator or even heard of one 'till now haha, but I had the same issue with a water pump bolt on an old Ford Grenada. I drilled the remaining bolt that was broken off flush with a smaller diameter drill and proceeded to round of smoothly my whole collection of easy outs and to no avail. So what I ended up doing was redrilling the bolt out to the same size as original and retapping the hole. The bad part of that experience was I had to take the rad out to get room. I hope this helps.

 

I would try to find a shop with an EDM machine. Even if I had to drive several hours away, it will be well worth it.

Keith

 

The problem with the easy out is they seem to be made of harder , more brittle metal and can snap off, as you know. I've never had much sucess with trying to drill them out.

Building up with tack welds, might be the approach.

Patience, and good luck.

 

Throw the easy out in the trash and buy a good set of left handed drill bits.

I **** you not you'll thank me later. I can't remember last time I use a Ez out. When I had my mill I would drill a hole in the bolt and swap out for a left hand drill bit. 90-95% of the time the drill would reverse the bolt out of the hole. If it didn't work I would drill through the bolt or mostly through it and then try again.

 

I had a LH drill bit break off in the remains of a 1/4" bolt on my BBQ grille.... they're just as hard to get out as an easy-out. 2 hours with a cobalt bit....

 

I struggled with this for hours this past weekend and ended up with a bunch of discarded bits. I am ready to drill a hole next to the existing and tap that.
What would the problem be with doing that?

 

Just thinking out loud before suggesting taking to a machine shop or engine builder.

BUT

Could you put a big enough nut and weld it though the nut opening? Image placing the nut flush and lining up the bit through the threaded portion of the nut. Then taking your mig or tig and being able to weld it that way? Area maybe to small but worth a try if you have the means/ability to.

 

Which hole is it?

The water jacket isn't real thick except at the (factory) bolt holes.

If you have a MIG, just welding a big goober on the end of the EZ-Out should allow you to twist it out.