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AC clutch replacement

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Old May 18, 2017 | 07:09 PM
  #1  
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AC clutch replacement

Not much to it guys...remove 3-8mm securing red bottle and swing putt way. Turn key to ON, to crack the 8mm bolt. Get 1/2prybar and remove serp belt, then remove the clutch. Unplug the connector at 9 o'clock position. Trying to remove the electrical unit, had to use a bit of effort to pop ur...other than that, go in reverse order and measure the shims. I set gap at .30 New parts
Ready to dig in
Resicoir outta way
.24 to start
Removing snap ting. Under all the dust
Lightly prying to pop ur
Cleaning ur up
New vs Old
D-stroyed
Done!!
Lookin good
Walah!
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 08:03 PM
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And the most important part is don't forget the snap ring. Had a buddy that did that and it ended up needing a new compressor since the end sheared off when he removed the pulley.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 08:42 PM
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Snap ring!.. That's what I called a c-clip, lol..brainfarted there..will fix now.. You would never know a snapring was there with all the dust from clutch. I only knew it existed from the new ring with the parts box
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:37 PM
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.030 is at the very outside edge of the factory spec isn't it? I read the spec is .014 to .030. Mine is just outside of that and I am thinking on pulling a shim to bring it closer to the lower end of the range as I had a warming issue a few weeks ago during extended idling, warmer than it ever used to get during these extended idling events.

Why did you decide to open it up from .024?
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:41 PM
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Yo Biggy...i went .30 out, because I "thought" I read .20-.40 was spec. Ski, fall in the middle... The .24 was merely what's been there since last year with no shims, plus the look of the clutch and its associated parts for the last year. Just didn't like what I saw, plus i had the kit on the shelf. Also, noticed/heard lately the ac kicking in/out... If .30 is the outer borderline, ill reshim her
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:54 PM
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I got this off another forum, could be wrong but it looks official
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 02:29 PM
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Did you use Marv's how-to as a guide?

SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

Stewart
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 09:13 AM
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What about a Ford part number and the source you bought it from?

Thanks for posting this, I have saved the link on my own personal parts/source list to this for future reference. I will update the list once we hear back from you.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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So Tim, did it do what you wanted? I removed shims 2 seasons ago but it is kicking in and out more then I like. It is full of freon. Where did you get the parts? Mine gets cool on the road but around town it takes a little bit before it cools down. Hate that. Should come out cool faster.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 02:40 PM
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What's a sign the clutch needs to be replaced vs shims need to be removed?
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 11:12 PM
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Remove the shims first, it's free and worked for me. Been a couple of years now I think my clutch just mitt be ready.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 11:31 PM
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Dig'n the heat wave Chet, lol... Hibernated down in Dana Point for the weekend to escape it. Hitn river for Memorial, so, will know if the kit works. Think, I'll shim ur up prior to Friday...
. Parts wise, Motorcraft from Rockauto 👍. Will have to dig the receipt up the what I paid, but definitely been already 3yrs these parts been collecting dust
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 08:39 AM
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It is a bit more pricey than what I thought, but still far less money and work than replacing the compressor.

Link to Rock Auto below.

More Information for MOTORCRAFT YBR115RM
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jonbar87
What's a sign the clutch needs to be replaced vs shims need to be removed?
What he said.....

I noticed towing the RV this weekend that the AC was struggling at times. I could tell the compressor dropped out or something.
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 09:36 PM
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Going to the beach is cheating Tim. It's hot out here in Norco. Got a guy coming out to replace my air hopefully Saturday. New ducts and all. Can't wait till it done.
 
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