pull the engine or pull the trans?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
pull the engine or pull the trans?
murphys law, what can go wrong, will.
a few months back I finally got my truck together.
now its leaking pretty bad between the rear main plate, and the oil pan.
ive actually seen it leak from there, the rear main is dry.
I also have a rear oil cooler header that wont stop leaking.
changed filters and its still leaking,
will a 96 oil cooler do the job of the 01 cooler?
another question is, do I try to take the easy way out and pull the trans and replace the rear main seal plate,
or am I better off pulling the engine and redoing the entire pan gasket.
I do have a forklift to pull the engine.
thanks for any insight
a few months back I finally got my truck together.
now its leaking pretty bad between the rear main plate, and the oil pan.
ive actually seen it leak from there, the rear main is dry.
I also have a rear oil cooler header that wont stop leaking.
changed filters and its still leaking,
will a 96 oil cooler do the job of the 01 cooler?
another question is, do I try to take the easy way out and pull the trans and replace the rear main seal plate,
or am I better off pulling the engine and redoing the entire pan gasket.
I do have a forklift to pull the engine.
thanks for any insight
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
If I had a choice engine or tranny I'd go tranny every time. Are you sure you don't have something leaking up top and draining down through the drain hole?
And while you're here I have a question for you...you do a lot of fabbing and modifications...It looks to me like that cross member that's in the way is riveted in place. Is there any reason that the rivets couldn't be ground off and replaced with bolts afterwards to avoid pulling the engine to do the pan? There were a couple of guys a long time ago who said that they were going to cut the member out and weld it back together, I wouldn't do that one.
And while you're here I have a question for you...you do a lot of fabbing and modifications...It looks to me like that cross member that's in the way is riveted in place. Is there any reason that the rivets couldn't be ground off and replaced with bolts afterwards to avoid pulling the engine to do the pan? There were a couple of guys a long time ago who said that they were going to cut the member out and weld it back together, I wouldn't do that one.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
im 100% positive that its leaking from the plate and pan.
I did have valve cover leaks, but I pulled them and replaced them with ones that were flat,
that leak is solved.
the cross members are riveted and welded.
this is also a MAJOR component of the chassis.
I would never do this.
even in my hotrod builds, I add a solid beefy cross member.
remember all of the torque your engine makes is mounted to this cross member.
I did have valve cover leaks, but I pulled them and replaced them with ones that were flat,
that leak is solved.
the cross members are riveted and welded.
this is also a MAJOR component of the chassis.
I would never do this.
even in my hotrod builds, I add a solid beefy cross member.
remember all of the torque your engine makes is mounted to this cross member.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
It certainly is more time consuming to pull the motor. It comes down to being able to do the job. Laying under the truck is no fun. I vote for pulling the motor and only doing it once. It is so much easier to completely clean the back of the motor to get a good seal when you are sitting on a stool scrubbing away. Plus you can easily replace or redo that oil cooler. I assume that you already looked at the flex plate and ring gear when you had things apart, so that isn't a concern.
Larry
Larry
Larry
Larry
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
flex plate is (.)(.)
ive replaced the cooler in the truck years ago, and didn't have any issues.
time is something that's a hot commodity. there is never enough of it.
I also have a manual transfer I want to swap for the electric one.
the truck has a 4" lift, so theoretically with the engine in, I can sit on my crawler and do the work with the engine in.
I agree that pulling the engine takes more time.
but I like to do things the correct way.
but I cant decide which way to tackle this.
my shop only fits 1 vehicle and I have my 63 ranchero that im doing a complete build on, and im down to wiring.
ive replaced the cooler in the truck years ago, and didn't have any issues.
time is something that's a hot commodity. there is never enough of it.
I also have a manual transfer I want to swap for the electric one.
the truck has a 4" lift, so theoretically with the engine in, I can sit on my crawler and do the work with the engine in.
I agree that pulling the engine takes more time.
but I like to do things the correct way.
but I cant decide which way to tackle this.
my shop only fits 1 vehicle and I have my 63 ranchero that im doing a complete build on, and im down to wiring.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
The consensus is that it is almost necessary to remove the engine to seal the pan correctly. However, there was a member here about a year ago who did not remove the engine and reported being successful. He left the vehicle sit for a few days for the oil to drain down out of the block first. I do not recall whether he loosened the engine mounts and jacked it up and I do not recall his user name.
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