SELECT/RESET Dash buttons not working??
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Senior User
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From: Scottsdale
SELECT/RESET Dash buttons not working??
Just got a 1995 F350. The SELECT and RESET buttons on my dash do nothing. It's on mileage Mileage counts and ticks properly. All gauges work. Back lights work. Is there any function i'm missing? lol
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From: Scottsdale
Took dash apart. Cluster push buttons were bottoming out on PSOM bird push buttons. Push buttons on PSOM board are "dead" after close inspection and testing with a multimeter. At first they were hard to move, cleaned with electrical cleaner, then they clicked a little. Hooked up board and clicked manually, got no change.
I can either get a new PSOM I suppose, or I could desolder and solder on new push switches...
I can either get a new PSOM I suppose, or I could desolder and solder on new push switches...
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From: Scottsdale
Caps look fine, at least at their thru holes and solder pads. I pulled a cluster from a yard today for $45. It's going off, with my original, to someone who is gonna copy the mileage/info from old to new one. $70 for the service. Lowest quote in town is $160. Ford dealer won't touch it.
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From: Central Mississippi
Few quick questions. You got at least a 95 cluster that works & you have no charging issues? (you put it in & drove it first, right, no bouncing needle, can change your tire size, right?)
Leaky caps look just like dead batteries that leak green corrosion from the underside of the "can" & down the legs to the board where the solder is discolored & no longer silver.
It's generally easier to just get the PSOM board rather than a whole cluster, (cheaper too) since most times you can walk through a yard & there will be trucks with a dash tore out & the cluster laying there destroyed and you just pocket the board or pay $5 bucks for it.
But you might want to try it out before paying more for the mileage transfer.
Leaky caps look just like dead batteries that leak green corrosion from the underside of the "can" & down the legs to the board where the solder is discolored & no longer silver.
It's generally easier to just get the PSOM board rather than a whole cluster, (cheaper too) since most times you can walk through a yard & there will be trucks with a dash tore out & the cluster laying there destroyed and you just pocket the board or pay $5 bucks for it.
But you might want to try it out before paying more for the mileage transfer.
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From: Scottsdale
It was out of a 95 2wd. I did test and drive with it. I did not try a calibration, but the mode button changed to TRIP and I was able to reset that. This guy said he will check all functions and if something is awry when I get it back he will reflash another one. I'm also pretty sure he will reset the calibration count.
I suppose there's a chance it's got something ready to go, but it seemed good initially.
I suppose there's a chance it's got something ready to go, but it seemed good initially.
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From: Easton,Ks
Yes when the cluster is out it will not charge as the wire that tells it to charge goes through the cluster.
When you copy the mileage over to the new PSOM all of the set-ups come along for the ride (the tire size, number of changes left, etc).
When you copy the mileage over to the new PSOM all of the set-ups come along for the ride (the tire size, number of changes left, etc).
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From: Scottsdale
it's a great deal at $60. He has 100% feedback.
I'll ask if he can reset the count. I'm sure he can.
I just got my hard copy of Electrical/Vacuum manual. Time to educate and nerd out on what goes where when it comes to the cluster and charging. I suspect that low voltage signal wire turns on something in the alternator so that the B+ field can send current to the generator coil? I just wasn't computing that alternator has anything other than big gauge, high current wiring involved.
I'll ask if he can reset the count. I'm sure he can.
I just got my hard copy of Electrical/Vacuum manual. Time to educate and nerd out on what goes where when it comes to the cluster and charging. I suspect that low voltage signal wire turns on something in the alternator so that the B+ field can send current to the generator coil? I just wasn't computing that alternator has anything other than big gauge, high current wiring involved.
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From: Easton,Ks
If he can copy there no big deal about resetting the count.
The power to turn on the alternator (Ford calls it a generator) goes though the gauge with a resister around it then it goes to the alternator.
Note the cluster must be out of a 1994 or 1995 for the alternator to work. You can use the 92-93 but you will have to re-pin the plugs to get it to charge.
95 cluster:
/
I just got my hard copy of Electrical/Vacuum manual. Time to educate and nerd out on what goes where when it comes to the cluster and charging. I suspect that low voltage signal wire turns on something in the alternator so that the B+ field can send current to the generator coil?
Note the cluster must be out of a 1994 or 1995 for the alternator to work. You can use the 92-93 but you will have to re-pin the plugs to get it to charge.
95 cluster:
/
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From: Scottsdale
If he can copy there no big deal about resetting the count.
The power to turn on the alternator (Ford calls it a generator) goes though the gauge with a resister around it then it goes to the alternator.
Note the cluster must be out of a 1994 or 1995 for the alternator to work. You can use the 92-93 but you will have to re-pin the plugs to get it to charge.
95 cluster:
/
The power to turn on the alternator (Ford calls it a generator) goes though the gauge with a resister around it then it goes to the alternator.
Note the cluster must be out of a 1994 or 1995 for the alternator to work. You can use the 92-93 but you will have to re-pin the plugs to get it to charge.
95 cluster:
/
While I have you here, what it the round-ish distro block on the passenger fender near neg battery terminal?
Thanks for the info, btw. I seriously appreciate the education. Found that diagram in my electrical manual.
