Transmission crossmember
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New User
Joined: May 2017
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Transmission crossmember
Hello newbie here. I recently acquired a 49 F2 and a 51 F1 I'm wondering about taking the transmission crossmember out of the F2 and putting in the F1 so I can use the heavy duty 3 speed behind the Flathead just by measuring everything looks like it will work would have to drill a couple more holes wondering if it has been done before the F2 has the deep dish crossmember. Thanks in advance
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
Many years ago I changed out from a stock 3 speed to a heavy duty 3 speed in my F-1. I do not remember changing the cross member. That said, perhaps there are different bolt on mounts for an F-1 and F-2 for the heavy duty 3 speed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Do you already have a HD 3-sp in hand? Does it have rear mounts for the F-2 style crossmember?
It might be easier to find a rear bearing retainer for the HD 3-sp's that was used in F-1. Then the HD 3-sp will bolt right in.
It might be easier to find a rear bearing retainer for the HD 3-sp's that was used in F-1. Then the HD 3-sp will bolt right in.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 80
From: Northville, MI
It would be a shame to compromise the '49 F2 just for a crossmember. Ross is right, changing the bearing retainer would be better. Those crossmember rivets are tough. I had to remove the right side of the crossmember of my F2 as I installed a 4R70W transmission. I left the driver's side to support the dual chamber master cylinder and booster.
I found that to remove the rivets you need to:
I should add that the cab needs to be removed from the frame. If it isn't it will be a lot more work on your back or on a hoist. I would suggest that you not resort to a smoke wrench as you could damage your frame.
You could grind off the heads of the rivets completely but you will still need to center drill them in order to release the hold that the rivets have on the frame. You also run the risk of damaging the frame slightly if your grind is not perfect (i.e. only rivet and no frame ground off).
And of course you need to multiply this effort times 2 as you will need to do it to the '49 and the '51.
So you can see why Ross's recommendation is a good one.
Good luck,
I found that to remove the rivets you need to:
- Grind a flat spot on the top of each rivet to be removed.
- Center punch each rivet.
- With a cobalt drill bit drill a 3/16" hole in the center. It doesn't have to go all the way through just to a depth below the bottom of the frame.
- With an air chisel shear off the top of the rivet.
- Spray with Kroil or your favorite penetrating oil.
- Change the tool on the air chisel from flat to pointed.
- Put the point of the air chisel in the drilled hole in the rivet, pull the trigger and it should pop right out without damaging the frame or the hole in the frame.
I should add that the cab needs to be removed from the frame. If it isn't it will be a lot more work on your back or on a hoist. I would suggest that you not resort to a smoke wrench as you could damage your frame.
You could grind off the heads of the rivets completely but you will still need to center drill them in order to release the hold that the rivets have on the frame. You also run the risk of damaging the frame slightly if your grind is not perfect (i.e. only rivet and no frame ground off).
And of course you need to multiply this effort times 2 as you will need to do it to the '49 and the '51.
So you can see why Ross's recommendation is a good one.
Good luck,
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