seperating the engine and trans
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 86
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From: CA
seperating the engine and trans
Ok, I got all the bolts out that hold the engine to the trans in my 79 F150 supercab, 400m and C6. I unbolted the trans mount, dropped the front and rear drive shafts, and removed the frame to trans bolt. I also removed the flexplate to torque converter bolts. I put a couple of long bolts in the bottom holes between the engine and trans so I can slide the trans straight back a few inched to get at the flexplate to put a new one in. I jacked a big floor jack up under the trans to try to roll the trans back, but I still can't get the engine and trans to seperate. Is there something that I'm missing here, or do I pretty much have to break them apart?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 104
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Try grabbing onto the tail shaft and wiggling it back and forth. Also go over everything with a fine tooth comb and make sure the starter is removed. Theoretically you can pull the trans off certain engines with the starter still attached. But it's a bear to do so.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Dumb question but are you sure you removed ALL the engine to tranny bolts? There should be 6 of them. I know it can be a little tough to pull them apar if you leave the converter bolted to the flex plate but if you've pulled the conveter bolts (nuts) and removed the 6 mounting bolts, plus the 2 bolts that hold the cover on the lower half of the bell housing it should fall right off of there.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: CA
Yep, six bolts (5 are the same length, 1 is a bit shorter, came from the bottom of the bellhousing), 4 converter nuts, 2 starer bolts, 2 bell housing cover bolts, and a partridge in a pear tree. I also unbolted the tranny mount, and the tranny to frame.
I did leave the transfer case bolted to the trans, I know that adds to the weight, but it was easier. Could the problem be in there somewhere? Right now I have a big jack under the bell housing, and a smaller one under the transfer case. The TC jacks right up off the crossmember, but I still can't get the trans to slide back. Or budge at all really.
BTW, nice truck!
I did leave the transfer case bolted to the trans, I know that adds to the weight, but it was easier. Could the problem be in there somewhere? Right now I have a big jack under the bell housing, and a smaller one under the transfer case. The TC jacks right up off the crossmember, but I still can't get the trans to slide back. Or budge at all really.
BTW, nice truck!
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 86
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From: CA
no, I didn't drop the crossmember, just unbolted the mount that connects the t-case to the crossmember. The t-case bolts to the trans, and then sits on a big motor mount looking thing directly on the crossmember.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Tucson, AZ
My '73 w/ inline 6 and c4 had 3 dustcover bolts, two for the smaller one at the bottom and a 3rd on for the big that goes behind the flexplate.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 86
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From: CA
I'm not trying to drop it, just slide it back a few inches so I can get my hand in between the engine and trans and replace the flexplate, so removing the crossmember shouldn't matter for what I'm doing, right?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: CA
NO, that I haven't done. So I should jack up the engine, and then slide the trans off? And I'm not sure how to push the converter back on the shaft without having the engine and trans already seperated?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
My supercab may be totally different than the setup on your truck but there's a ridge in the floor pan right above my t-case. If I don't pull the crossmember the t-case will not clear this ridge and there is no way to slide it back. Again, your floorpan may not have this but check it out. At the very least I would loosen the crossmember to allow a little more movement under there.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: lino lakes, mn
you have two dowl pins on the block that align the two you have to support the engine and the tranny any sag will bind the dowls once you get them supported the converter should move <> about a 1/2 inch put a bar between the converter and flex plate and wiggle gently the tou may still have to remove that pesky crossmember to getr the clearance you need when you go to reasemble make sure the converter is still all the way on the pump tangs and never never pull the ytranny tight to the block with the bolts you will bust the bellhousing