ebay heads up
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I would bet if you try to sell a "pieces parts truck" out of state, the state will want to inspect it. Then they would find all the mismatched numbers and the red flag would go up. Until you come up with all the paperwork stating you own "all the pieces", they would likely not allow you to license it. I know in Ohio you have to show every little slip of paper when you build something. They consider it stolen if you don't.
I'm with Gman, if you want a clean truck in the rust belt you are willing to pay A LOT more then someone out west. I paid good money for my '95(with 60K miles), but I don't want to deal with RUST, period.
I'm with Gman, if you want a clean truck in the rust belt you are willing to pay A LOT more then someone out west. I paid good money for my '95(with 60K miles), but I don't want to deal with RUST, period.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,357
Likes: 813
From: Mi'kma'ki
None of us do but it's inevitable if you drive them on winter roads.Most vehicles rot out before they ware out in the northern states.
The bad thing about not driving them,like this one here with the low miles (and appears to be legit based on the history report) is that,now the buyer is in for a rude awakening when he starts to drive it.All the seals are shot,the brake lines rusted from the inside out,all the brake hardware frozen,all the fluids stink to high heaven,and electrical corrosion issues that he'll be chasing for over a year or more.All the rubber hoses,the radiator may be rusted beyond salvage inside,the coolant may need to be flushed a few times in the first year,the fuel tank pickups rotted off.The list goes on.He'll soon be in close to half his purchase price just to get the thing reliable again.That's only if he does the work himself,if not he'll surpass what he payed in no time.
I know all too well.I bought mine with 50k verified miles and I surpassed the purchase price in the first year.......not even talking about modifications.This was the 4wd F250.
The 2WD F-450 with high miles (190k) didn't require half the work.
The best way to buy a classic ride is to head south and buy one.Then for the love of god put the thing up in the winter and run a beater.You'll never meet someone at a classic car show,who tells you they keep it so good because they rust proofed it with something, so it stays good while they drive it in the winter.
The bad thing about not driving them,like this one here with the low miles (and appears to be legit based on the history report) is that,now the buyer is in for a rude awakening when he starts to drive it.All the seals are shot,the brake lines rusted from the inside out,all the brake hardware frozen,all the fluids stink to high heaven,and electrical corrosion issues that he'll be chasing for over a year or more.All the rubber hoses,the radiator may be rusted beyond salvage inside,the coolant may need to be flushed a few times in the first year,the fuel tank pickups rotted off.The list goes on.He'll soon be in close to half his purchase price just to get the thing reliable again.That's only if he does the work himself,if not he'll surpass what he payed in no time.
I know all too well.I bought mine with 50k verified miles and I surpassed the purchase price in the first year.......not even talking about modifications.This was the 4wd F250.
The 2WD F-450 with high miles (190k) didn't require half the work.
The best way to buy a classic ride is to head south and buy one.Then for the love of god put the thing up in the winter and run a beater.You'll never meet someone at a classic car show,who tells you they keep it so good because they rust proofed it with something, so it stays good while they drive it in the winter.
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