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Ignition Wiring Question

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Old May 15, 2017 | 11:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Lampasas,TX
Originally Posted by genscripter
I already have a shut-off switch for my e-pump, but the odd thing is, regardless if the fuel pump is "ON" or "OFF" it still starts and runs.
I said a "shutoff valve" not a "shutoff switch". A diesel injection pump has just enough suction to pull fuel through a non-running electric pump.

You want a valve in the fuel supply line that actually closes and completely shuts off flow through the valve. You could put a manual ball valve in the fuel supply line but you'd need to mount it in a hidden location and reroute the fuel line to it. You can install an electric shutoff anywhere in the line and activate it electrically.

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Old May 15, 2017 | 11:55 PM
  #17  
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I know you said valve. I just don't want to install one. With a van, it's a huge PITA to install one on the front of the engine, since I'm running the R&D IDI Stage 1 fuel filters on the rail. So putting a shutoff valve under the van isn't going to fly for my family members who want to borrow the van. They don't want to climb under the van to turn some hidden valve. However, a hidden switch under the dash is a lot easier to explain over the phone.

the FSS is the shutoff valve. Everything comes down to disabling the electrical and FSS, and hacking the "Run" wire on the ignition seems to be the best solution to all of this. Unlike the movies, this wiring is not easy to access. So splicing some wiring and a switch into that circuit will ensure that the average thief cannot hijack the van. Even if they start it with a screwdriver and wire a jumper to the FSS, they won't be able to keep it running with the "Run" wire disabled.
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 07:55 AM
  #18  
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I had wiring diagrams posted in my profile but for some reason they were removed. You can do it at your glow plug modulator connector the ignition wire is right next to the 2 10 amp wires feeding power to the gpm. I just checked the ignition wire is dark blue 20 amp wire.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #19  
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How about a high quality steering wheel lock? Those locking bar things. I understand that the good ones are not easy to defeat. I'm serious!

Professional car thieves/Chop shops would be prepared to defeat those BUT they are not going to be stealing an old IDI van. They want newer cars that have a big parts market so they can sell a lot of expensive parts quick.

A cop pulled me over one night while driving my Honda Civic Coupé. (it's like driving a go-cart) He told me the reason he pulled me over is because Honda Civic is the most frequently stolen vehicle in the USA. There is a large demand for Honda parts and engines/parts sell fast. So do the stolen cars after they are altered. The front clip on mine is a slightly different color so probably that's why he pulled me over. A couple of chop shops have been "busted" in this area in the past few years and they were doing mostly Hondas.

Street people and the types you said that you are concerned about are not going to mess with or even be prepared to try to defeat a steering lock like that. There are too many other vehicles around that would be much easier to steal.

Just another idea for you.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 03:03 PM
  #20  
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Good idea.

My concerns are not just about Los Angeles. I do lots of roadtrips with this van, and we end up parking this beast all over the continent. Sometimes we have to leave the van in sketchy areas (hotels, trail heads, gentlemen's clubs, free clinics, etc), and it would be nice to have a IP or ignition shut-off switch hidden. But the steering lock upgrade is a great idea.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 03:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by swhitney133
I had wiring diagrams posted in my profile but for some reason they were removed. You can do it at your glow plug modulator connector the ignition wire is right next to the 2 10 amp wires feeding power to the gpm. I just checked the ignition wire is dark blue 20 amp wire.
7 Images are still there! You have to DISABLE ad-blocking software or privacy software to be able to see ALL images, even those posted in threads. You might be able to see some images but not all images if ad-blockers or other privacy software is enabled. To post images you must have those disabled.
 
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Old May 21, 2017 | 07:59 PM
  #22  
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From: Thomaston
Originally Posted by genscripter
Good idea.

My concerns are not just about Los Angeles. I do lots of roadtrips with this van, and we end up parking this beast all over the continent. Sometimes we have to leave the van in sketchy areas (hotels, trail heads, gentlemen's clubs, free clinics, etc), and it would be nice to have a IP or ignition shut-off switch hidden. But the steering lock upgrade is a great idea.
Cheap version would be a logging chain and pad lock. Thru the steering wheel around the brake pedal. if you will want to mess with people chain to a post or tree like they do with bikes and trailers
 
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Old Aug 1, 2024 | 10:34 PM
  #23  
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Hazard lights should be on battery, not ignition. They are hot all the time.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2024 | 04:01 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by genscripter
I'm installing a switch to shut off my ignition to not allow thieves to drive my van away when it's parked. It's either that, or I do a switch for the wire that powers the IP FSS.

Does anyone know which wires on a Ford 1988 ignition would be the one that controls the starting of the vehicle?
There are any number of ways to implement an interrupt, some better than others. If you do try to interrupt the ignition, at least the entire ignition circuit, just remember than this is such a heavy circuit that it does not even have a replaceable fuse; it has a fusible link. You would want to use at least a 30 amp switch if you try to disable the entire ignition circuit. To tell you the truth, I wish someone would show me how to hot-wire my 1988 F-150, I've spent days (off and on) working to hot-wire my truck because the ignition part of the ignition switch is bad (still cranks). I thought I had all the right wires but it still doesn't work. (Yellow (bat) to red-green (ign.)
Just remember, your plan is only as good as your ability to hide and protect the switch. Here's an idea that may work just as well; just requires a little extra work each time you want to protect. Use a battery disconnect switch. While it is easy enough to reconnect, criminals usually being as dumb as they are, will open the door and see that everything is dead and just think the battery is dead and go on (hopefully). Nothing is foolproof, but that would be easy to implement and offer some deterrent. The more complicated you make it, the more prone it is to failure, or some other unforeseen problem.
 
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