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Throttle surge and stalling issues

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Old May 12, 2017 | 06:37 AM
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Throttle surge and stalling issues

Anyone with a good clue on what is happening here:
7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill.

Insight highly appreciated.

CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 09:02 AM
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OEM only on the CPS so start with that. Happens at the same place? There have been reports that radio antennae or other phenomenon can interfere with aftermarket CPS's. The next thing I would look at would be the fuel tank and if you've done a Hutch mod, I am not familiar with the Ex's so input from someone who does could help you with that part.

I'd like to tour Norway, how is it?
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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Thanks for reply! I have bought the OEM CPS now and will give it a try tomorrow. The radio interferrence is interesting as it happend at more or less exact same spot! Not sure what a Hutch mod is. Haven't done it. As mentioned changed fuel filter and there was som dirt in the basin that I flushed out with some diesel from a can.

If you like some nice and wild mountain and fjord scenery Norway should be good

Espen

Edit: I drove home from work right now and the throttle surges came earlier. I suspect the reason is the engine was warmer to start with. It feels like something is stuck and then loosens up when engine get warm. Either fuel restriction or perhaps IPR (i have read this may be an issue as well)
 

Last edited by Excursion01Norway; May 12, 2017 at 09:58 AM. Reason: new info
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Old May 13, 2017 | 05:21 AM
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New update; changed to OEM CPS this morning. Disconnected battery first. Connected battery after the CPS installation and ran the "engine relearning procedure" with idling to warm, AD on and in Drive. Engine worked great. First EBPV closed as it should to heat up engine. It opened up and idle rmpm reduced after warm. Very smooth idle in general. Drove a litle bit on the yard to hook up a trailer. When in park and idling the enine stalled suddenly aut of the blue. Started fine up again...
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 06:52 AM
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Have you checked for loose connections on the engine harness, UVCH connections and wire chafing around the 42 pin connector? I would check those next. Do you have a way to read engine codes?
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 09:37 AM
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Thanks I will check wires/connections and the 42pin specifically. I have no code reader and there arent any good shops around for US Fords. I guess I should by some tool to get readings (any suggestions?).

The truck was standing completely still when engine stalled last time. I would think that a loose connection ore soemthing would mess up on a bumpy road or soemthing. I also think that things tend to happen when engine is a bit warm but not completely at operating temp.

The problem is really difficult to get around. I have tried 3 different CPS now and the engine seem to behave a bit different each time. And not good even with the OEM. Could it be that the "brain" of the engine is a bit messed up?
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 11:08 AM
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What diagnostic equipment you get depends on what electronics you have. Are you iOs or Android?
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 12:34 PM
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Hi I am on IOS
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 12:42 PM
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For iOs you need a wifi OBDII adapter. I got this one by Veepeak, it was cheapest and works fine. Then you download Forescan from the app store for about $5.00. You can't read it while you are driving but it will check everything you need to check on your truck. There are some other adapters available but I do not know what else to go with.

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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Here is a link from Tugly's signature that might help with understanding obd2 scanning for our trucks


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Excursion01Norway
New update; changed to OEM CPS this morning. Disconnected battery first. Connected battery after the CPS installation and ran the "engine relearning procedure" with idling to warm, AD on and in Drive. Engine worked great. First EBPV closed as it should to heat up engine. It opened up and idle rmpm reduced after warm. Very smooth idle in general. Drove a litle bit on the yard to hook up a trailer. When in park and idling the enine stalled suddenly aut of the blue. Started fine up again...
Was the CPS purchased from the Ford or International Dealer only? Have to ask because the part store ones seldom work reliably. Do you remember what color it was?
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 02:22 PM
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Hi Jim, the last CPS I put in was a grey "ford genuine parts" # F7TZ-12K073-B

Paul and Mark, thanks for info!

Espen
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 03:00 PM
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The question I asked was it from a Ford or International dealer only? Don't know if Norway has either,i guessing maybe?
 
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Old May 13, 2017 | 03:27 PM
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Ok, I bought the CPS from Quirkparts on EBAY (shipped from US). Wouldn't that be same part as a Ford dealer would have? (Not sure we have any International dealer here)
Espen
 
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Old May 14, 2017 | 12:49 PM
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Maybe, maybe not. Did it come in a plastic bag with Ford logo and part number on it? Can you provide a link to what you bought and we can take a look at that. I once bought a sensor on fleabay touted as genuine Ford, even had a picture of it complete with Ford logo in the ad. When it arrived it was a knock off that didn't even work.

Have you checked to see if your IPR has the nut on it and tight?
 
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