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Since the odometer display is coming on with key in RUN, that's some good sign; there's power through the RUN circuit of the ignition switch.
Yes but if I remember right there are multiple RUN contacts in that switch, not just a single one. And they are fed by different upstream fuses in the power distribution panel.
So if ALL you get is the odometer backlight and nothing else (no fuel pump, no idiot lights, no voltmeter reading) when you turn the key, I'd say you have a blown fuse or bad switch somewhere.
Now to answer the question in your first post about a short, you have an open circuit(s) somewhere. This can be CAUSED by a short which in turn blows a fuse, so the reason I'm telling you this is when you go to check your fuses DON'T just chuck a blown fuse in the trash if you find one. Look at it first. If there is a dead short somewhere, even if it's only intermittent, then the fusible link (the little metal wire) inside the fuse cartridge will be instantly vaporized and you'll see the black scorch marks inside the fuse. If you don't see the scorch marks but rather just see the link has melted, that's a sign that there was either a partial short or overload downstream in that circuit.
Unless there is a single fuse hanging somewhere, I have checked and changed all the fuses in both power distribution boxes. Where is the neutral switch that I have heard several of you gentlemen mention. About the ignition switch wiring, I understand that there are certain contacts that would be open and closed at particular times... but I was thinking beyond switch at the coupling, if any of the pins grounded to chassis, this could possibly narrow down a wiring short? Any input?
I am sorry to ask again, but is there a link on this site where I can find a complete wiring schematic? I am working from bit and pieces I have found from images on misc. sites. Thanks
Alright, starting over. When I turn ignition key, I do not hear a click by the solenoid, there is no voltage running to the small post to activate the solenoid. When I jump the large posts on solenoid, the truck turns over. On the dash, when I turn key, the speedometer needle drops below the 0 mph line. No clicks, no lights. I have tried to start in neutral to no avail. It sounds like the odometer going off is correct from what you are saying. Turn signals are functional as well as headlights, flashers, and tail lights. There are no dome or dash lights except when blinkers or flashers are activated.
The NSS is on the transmission. IIRC, the wires for the start circuit are blue/red. Your tests indicate a problem in the wiring upstream of the starter relay, so the NSS is a prime suspect. One other test to confirm - instead of jumping the large terminals on the starter relay, jump a wire from the battery + to the small terminal on the relay. If the engine cranks, then that confirms the relay is good and the problem is indeed upstream.
Have you tried leaving the key in the RUN position, then jumping the starter relay?
Have you tried leaving the key in the RUN position, then jumping the starter relay?
I will second this one again!
The engine should fire up. This is important to know because it would mean the difference between troubleshooting a simple no crank scenario or a more complex problem affecting other electrical circuits as well.
It is good to know your lighting circuits are working. This eliminates a general power distribution problem in the truck. At least we now know there is power in the cab.
starter relay works fine by jumping it from the small post. I have tried leaving key in run position and jumping it. It turns over fine. but nothing in the fuel intake. the wire that hooks up to the small post typically for the starter relay has zero voltage when key in start position. as soon as it stops raining I will check switch on transmission. thanks
starter relay works fine by jumping it from the small post. I have tried leaving key in run position and jumping it. It turns over fine. but nothing in the fuel intake. the wire that hooks up to the small post typically for the starter relay has zero voltage when key in start position. as soon as it stops raining I will check switch on transmission. thanks
If the engine doesn't start when jumping the solenoid (and the key is on), your problem isn't the transmission switch.
If the engine doesn't start when jumping the solenoid (and the key is on), your ONLY problem isn't the transmission switch.
Fixed. The OP most likely has two problems. Something is opening the start circuit upstream of the starter relay. It could very well be the NSS. The no-fire is a different issue, most likely unrelated since the start and run circuits run mostly separately.
Oh, to the OP's question about a diagram - there isn't "a" diagram. Wiring for a vehicle like this requires an entire book. Good one to have on hand, BTW; it's called the EVTM - Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual. There are PDF and other online versions, but they're not much help when you're slithering under the truck poking a tranny switch with a meter, or jumping between pages. Good for sitting-at-a-desk reference, however.
starter relay works fine by jumping it from the small post. I have tried leaving key in run position and jumping it. It turns over fine. but nothing in the fuel intake. the wire that hooks up to the small post typically for the starter relay has zero voltage when key in start position. as soon as it stops raining I will check switch on transmission. thanks
Now we are getting somewhere. Sounds to me like some of the multiple power feeds to the ignition switch may be dead. This is my best guess at this point, but this era of truck has an underhood fuse box which distributes battery power to among others things, the ignition switch. It is fed by a heavy wire from a fusible link which may be down at the battery terminal on the starter. (This is a bit of a departure from the earlier trucks which had this fusible link at the starter relay and had no underhood fuse box.) There will be a stud on the side of this box covered by a plastic shield. Check for battery power at this stud. If there is no power, troubleshoot between the fusebox and the starter and you will fix your problem. If the fusible link is open, be careful and look for a possible short, but hopefully it will be simply a broken wire. You could test this easily by jumpering battery + to the stud on the underhood fusebox, but be mindful of the possibility of a short.
Ok, it rained for the last week, now starting to dry up so I will be able to check some of the info. I thank you for your patience. Let you know what I find out. Appreciate all the guidance.
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