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Old May 8, 2017 | 11:39 AM
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rebuild or crate engine

Hey all,
I am in a bit of a predicament. I have a 1973 F250 with either a 360 or 390 not sure. I am trying to decide if i want to restore the current motor or to buy a crate engine. now here is the kicker it ran a few years back but its been sitting a while. I inherited it after a family member passed. Anyway i tried turning it over by hand and it wont budge not even with a wrench. Just hoping to get a few opinions so i can decide on a course of action. Thanks for any advice you may have as this will be my first in depth project so ill take all the advice i can get!
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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Welcome!

First off, yer going to have to yank the engine whether you rebuild or obtain a crate...

Have you tried pulling the plugs, spill a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders, wait a day/half a day and re-try turning her over with a socket?

If she's been settin fer a spell chances are good that there's a bunch of rust in there...rusted rings (mebbe), rusted berrins, lifters, etc.

Me? I would rebuild...after ascertaining if she's a 360 or 390. Those two blocks share the same/same except for the crank and pistons...
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:17 PM
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I just went thought 3 blocks (including the original) before I found a good one. I always suggest trying to rebuild as a first option
and besides YA CANT BREAK WHATS ALREADY BROKEN!! so don't be afraid to dig into it to diagnose it if ya have to
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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I have not tried that yet but I most certainly will! Sounds like I have just been looking at this from the wrong angle. Your right I'm going to have to do it either way so might as well take a get at it.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:41 PM
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having recently seen an FE engine (my brother's 360) go from running rough in a truck to out on a stand ready to go back in, i'd say this is one of the easier platforms to rebuild! no a whole whole lot for 'aftermarket' like some of the other motors in that era, but you catch my drift... toss the iron intake and get an aluminum one with a nice carb! and poot sum headers awn eet! and msd ignition! lol just kidding, do what you want with your truck! looking forward to hearing what you end up doing to it!
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Turd-250
having recently seen an FE engine (my brother's 360) go from running rough in a truck to out on a stand ready to go back in, i'd say this is one of the easier platforms to rebuild! no a whole whole lot for 'aftermarket' like some of the other motors in that era, but you catch my drift... toss the iron intake and get an aluminum one with a nice carb! and poot sum headers awn eet! and msd ignition! lol just kidding, do what you want with your truck! looking forward to hearing what you end up doing to it!
Ha! Already been looking at the intake and carb! Definitely want to do headers to just wasn't sure I wanted to tackle that project but heck if I'm pulling the engine no better time to do it.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 03:01 PM
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you got that right! if you want i'll ask what my bro did on his intake, not that theres tons of options lol
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Turd-250
you got that right! if you want i'll ask what my bro did on his intake, not that theres tons of options lol
Couldnt hurt I was thinking just an edlebrock performer 4 barrel
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 03:47 PM
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I put a eldebrock performer on my 390. It works fine. But in my case I would put a performer rpm on it. But the intake and cam have to be close on the operating rpms too work to it's full performance potential. And a carburetor that us too big can hurt also. Stick around the 625, 650 cfm range. And a set of headers and 2.5 inch exhaust you will be happy
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin73supercamper
I put a eldebrock performer on my 390. It works fine. But in my case I would put a performer rpm on it. But the intake and cam have to be close on the operating rpms too work to it's full performance potential. And a carburetor that us too big can hurt also. Stick around the 625, 650 cfm range. And a set of headers and 2.5 inch exhaust you will be happy
I did have a question on the headers what do I do with the egr port on the intake then? Just cap it?
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 05:19 PM
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Usually on the aftermarket intakes the EGR stuff is non-existant. I think you can order one with or without the EGR accoutrements.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 05:23 PM
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Fair enough
 
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Old May 24, 2017 | 09:15 AM
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I have been in your shoes and I will recommend crate. Unless you have a piecemeal budget it may be more bang for your buck in the long run. Unless you are going to hone and build it yourself a shop plus necessary parts are going to run close to the price of a dynoed crate. Whatever you do never LEB racing for an engine those guys are cocky idiots. You can start of with a long block and build it yourself if you want the experience but once you add up parts it's a wash. I got a roller stroker crate from Blueprint and I am pretty happy with it.
 
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Old May 24, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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Also debated same thing. Build what I got or crate. Best I could figure barring any machine shop surprises it would be almost same money.

Went with what I had.
Machine shop money stays local, hand pick parts, know exactly what was done and for dumb sentimental reasons still have the engine the truck came with.
 
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Old May 24, 2017 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 77F350RangerSCS
Also debated same thing. Build what I got or crate. Best I could figure barring any machine shop surprises it would be almost same money.

Went with what I had.
Machine shop money stays local, hand pick parts, know exactly what was done and for dumb sentimental reasons still have the engine the truck came with.
hey, nothing wrong with that. I have had a few nasty surprises on bow tie stuff I messed with and some import stuff. I wanted more torque and power so that's why I went crate. If I retrofitted my block with roller and bored I would only be making 250 max unless I poured more in go fast parts. I have 410 ft tq and a 3 yr warranty.
 
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