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I recently installed a 2.5" leveling coil spacer on my 2011 F250 2wd. I then took to local alignment shop to have it aligned. The mechanic put 2.5 degree cam and it did not quite get the tires level and the three degree caused the spindle to hit the axle not allowing the tires to turn. Anyone knowing of any issues with this going on with this particular F250? The mechanic suggested I look for a 2.5" lowering bracket for the i beams. Any suggestions where I can find them (lowering brackets) or if this is the route I should take to get my truck level? Thanks in advance.
The brackets bring the caster back into spec without effecting camber, or toe in. They do this by lowering the rear of the radius arm. For simplicity sake, lets just say the radius arm is parallel with the road. When the lift (or leveling ) kit is installed it lifts the frame of the truck up along with the bracket the rear end of the radius arm is attached to. Now the radius arm is not parallel with the road any more. A drop bracket simply drops the rear end of the radius arm back down so the radius arm is level with the road again.
The reason why this effects steering is because the front of the radius arm is connected to the axle, and when the rear end of the radius arm is rotated up the axle is rotated causing more negative caster.
Now, I did a little research and the radius arm bracket that is attached to the frame appears to be the same as a 2011 4 wheel drive F250. The bolt is also the same as a 4 wheel drive, but the bushing is not the same.
I believe you would be able to use a drop bracket from a 4 wheel drive kit. This drop bracket bolts to the bracket that is attached to the frame.
This is about the best out there. You can do a quick google search and get more options.
Because you have a 2 wheel drive and 2 I beam axles instead of a solid axle your lift changes the camber also. You may be able to get the camber back with the alignment bushings.
Sorry for being so long winded, I just want you to make the most informed decision possible.
Yes the truck is 2WD and has made it quite the challenge on doing it myself. Thank you Chuck for the detailed response and I completely agree with what you said.
I have been doing a little bit of research and know that Tough Country will sell the brackets separately as a replacement part, but they do not show my year as a bracket they sell. I was planning on calling them tomorrow to see if they make it. Do you use a particular site to get your parts?
Now the link you provided seemed a little foreign to what I have been finding on what the brackets look like. Here is what I have come up with. Let me know what you think and if I am heading in the right direction.
4 Wheel Parts wants to charge $270 to get the truck back into alignment,which I thought was crazy high. The cheapest I have found the brackets was was $300, so I am weighing my options on monies spent. I would like to do it myself without going overboard spending so much. Of course they have not seen the truck yet and tech says they make it work, which is why I want to do it myself.
Thank you for your expertise, it is much appreciated!!!!
The trick I use to find out if your truck is the same as a 2011 4 wheel drive, I look at the price. I saw that a radius arm bracket is the exact same price on both trucks. From this I assume that the part is the same, and will be the same part number. Don't go by the number on the diagram, this is just a callout number.
The link you gave is for a kit that comes with a spacer, but that's the idea.
This might be a better option. Because you have a 2.5" lift, you want the least amount of drop possible.
I think the 3.5" drop bracket would work. You may end up on the upper side of the caster spec, but that would be best in my opinion. More caster gives slower steering and more stable handling. Less caster gives quicker steering, but less stable handling.
I have the Ford workshop manual for the 2005 super duties. The caster spec for a 2 wheel drive F250 is +3.8 deg. This is more caster than any of the 4 wheel drive super duties. I am not sure if it is the same as your 2011, but I thought you might find it interesting.
Unfortunately we need to have our trucks alignment checked/adjusted at an alignment shop.
The camber adjustment may prove to be the more challenging part off the alignment. I hope you can get it with the alignment bushings.
It seems like I have been finding the right information to my dilemma. My alignment guy comes highly recommended and has already proven himself to be trustworthy, so I feel pretty good about his suggestions. He has been doing alignments since Jesus walked the earth and even though hes an old-timer, he stated hes done numerous lift alignments before.
I was going to call him tomorrow and see what he said about the 3.5" drop. He wanted me to find a drop either 2.5" or 2", but the lift companies do not seem to make anything less than a 3.5". With the one inch offset, I would assume there would not be a problem aligning. Tomorrow will tell....
I have the Tuff Country parts. 2.5" spacers ready to go in. I was looking at these radius arm drop brackets and was going to get the 3.5" just have not yet. I could not find any 2.5" drop brackets. I did a lot of research too. I already have the 2.5" front spacers, 4" rear blocks, and the 2.5" trac bar drop bracket to keep the axle centered.
I have the Tuff Country parts. 2.5" spacers ready to go in. I was looking at these radius arm drop brackets and was going to get the 3.5" just have not yet. I could not find any 2.5" drop brackets. I did a lot of research too. I already have the 2.5" front spacers, 4" rear blocks, and the 2.5" trac bar drop bracket to keep the axle centered.
If it was my truck I would put the 3.5" drop brackets in with the lift and take it to the alignment shop. If the alignment shop can't get enough caster back out of it you can always remove the drop brackets.
In my opinion the more caster the better.
FWIW The 2005 F 250 4x4 caster spec. for standard suspension is 3.3 deg +/- 1.2 deg. So you could go up to 4.5 deg and still be in spec. I can't be certain that a 2008 has the same specs. but I wouldn't doubt it does.
The problem is, if you don't use the drop brackets and then have it aligned, the shop only has to get it to 2.1 deg to get it into spec. It will be within spec but will tend to wander all over the road, but will handle like a race car.
Not make things more confusing but this may also be an option.
It seems like I have been finding the right information to my dilemma. My alignment guy comes highly recommended and has already proven himself to be trustworthy, so I feel pretty good about his suggestions. He has been doing alignments since Jesus walked the earth and even though hes an old-timer, he stated hes done numerous lift alignments before.
I was going to call him tomorrow and see what he said about the 3.5" drop. He wanted me to find a drop either 2.5" or 2", but the lift companies do not seem to make anything less than a 3.5". With the one inch offset, I would assume there would not be a problem aligning. Tomorrow will tell....
Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
Having an alignment shop you trust is half the battle, so that's good to hear.
Let us know how you make out, and some pics when it's all done maybe.
I posted some pics in my garage of what I am working with (i beams).
I came across these Pro Comp lowering brackets that say they are 2.5"-3.5" and work with my truck but say 4wd only of course.
Do you think these will work with my truck, I cannot tell myself? I looks like to me that the 4wd truck has a completely different front end vs. the 2wd F250. Not surprising from what little I know about working on the trucks.
I can't be 100% sure they will work but I believe they will. When I researched a 2011 4x2 and a 2011 4x4 I found that the radius arm bracket and the bolt appears to be the same part. From this I conclude that the bushings are the same width and except the same size bolt.
Yes, everything in front of these brackets is completely different in a 4x4 as compared to a 4x2.
You may want to call Pro Comp and ask them if these will fit a 2wd. I just can't think of any reason why they will not work.
After some more education on my part, do not buy a 2wd truck in the future.
Called eight suspension companies and no one sells i beam drop brackets for 2011 F250 2wd. So I went to 4 wheel parts and asked if the 2.5" leveling lift was too much and if I needed to go down to a 2" spacer. They said 2.5" spacer is not the issue for the truck not aligning properly. I need to get an aftermarket adjustable caster cam.
Also.... I thought this was interesting, the 4WP tech said the truck will not be perfectly aligned, but will be close enough that it will not effect tread wear on the tires, y'all ever heard of that before? I guess they are the experts, right. Another con to having modified 2wd truck.
Learned a lot about caster and camber on my quest to get this truck lifted. Only comes in quarter increments, so it looks like 2-3/4° cam is all I am lacking.
I have 2" blocks I still need to install in the rear to assist when towing the ponies, hopefully no issues there. Hopefully I can get it done next weekend.
Hope this has helped some 2wd owners....
This is pre 2" lift in the rear and need some new rims and tires
Last edited by jct81; Mar 30, 2014 at 11:38 PM.
Reason: picture did not post
After some more education on my part, do not buy a 2wd truck in the future.
Called eight suspension companies and no one sells i beam drop brackets for 2011 F250 2wd. So I went to 4 wheel parts and asked if the 2.5" leveling lift was too much and if I needed to go down to a 2" spacer. They said 2.5" spacer is not the issue for the truck not aligning properly. I need to get an aftermarket adjustable caster cam.
Also.... I thought this was interesting, the 4WP tech said the truck will not be perfectly aligned, but will be close enough that it will not effect tread wear on the tires, y'all ever heard of that before? I guess they are the experts, right. Another con to having modified 2wd truck.
Learned a lot about caster and camber on my quest to get this truck lifted. Only comes in quarter increments, so it looks like 2-3/4° cam is all I am lacking.
I have 2" blocks I still need to install in the rear to assist when towing the ponies, hopefully no issues there. Hopefully I can get it done next weekend.
hello, I know it has been quite some time but did you ever get your 2wd f250 aligned and good for the 2.5 inch level kit? I’m having the same issue right now not being able to get my truck aligned and the spindle is hitting the I beam when I turn if I put in camber plates. Thank you
Just use a grinder and remove some material from the edge of the spindle. You only need a 1/4 inch or so. I did it to my 02 with no issues. Just radius the edge of the thick rusty part, red arrow
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