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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jul 30, 2023 | 03:08 PM
  #31  
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Well the good news is that everything from the connector back to the lights themselves, seems to be in good working order.
But where are you jumping the battery to? To the body-side connector of the tail light harness, or to the transmission-side connector to the neutral-safety switch?

Either way, what do you find on the other Black w/red wire? Should be 12v with the ignition switch in the ON and ACC positions I would think.
If you have 12v to the body-side of the connector with the key on, then there is still a break in the circuit between there and the other wire. Either a bad new switch (would not be the first time!) or a bum wire.
Or the switch is still out of adjustment.
Of course, wire or switch, the switch is bad because the wires are part of the assembly.

Did you follow the normal adjustment procedure when installing the new switch? Does the neutral-safety part of it work? Starter won't crank in anything but Park or Neutral?
Can you test the switch by just rowing the shift lever through the entire range of motion to see if the lights even flicker? Or did you do that already?

Paul
 
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Old Jul 30, 2023 | 04:34 PM
  #32  
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What I have done so far, replaced nss, if i unhook the connector froms the nss and the wiring harness by the firewall, i can run hot to the black and red wires to test the bulbs sockets and ground, they light up, so I assume grounds are good as well. Inly starts in park and neutral that part works great, originall nss and new one work the same, no backup lights. Not sure how to adjust the nss
 
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Old Jul 30, 2023 | 04:55 PM
  #33  
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I even plugged in old nss and rotated center piece by hand and no luck
 
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Old Aug 2, 2023 | 01:53 AM
  #34  
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Have a voltmeter, or test light handy?
There are two black with red wires coming into that connector. One of them goes out to the back up lamps and that one you know because you’ve applied 12 V to it.
The other one should have 12 V when the key is on. Sounds like it might not be getting power.
But you can check that easily enough with a voltmeter or light.

If it does have power, then there is still something wrong with both of your switches.
 
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