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Hello all, heading out to the garage to finish my carpet installation project (different thread). One thing that I haven't yet resolved is that my setup seems to lack a "fast idle" upon startup. I have an Edelbrock carb on top of my FE block. The butterflies are more closed (and I've played with adjusting them) when the engine is cold and they wide open when the engine is warm (i.e. the electric choke is doing it's job(?)). However, cold starts require a handful of "start and dies" before she will stay started. Once it does stay started, it will idle cold (as it warms up) and I have no problems with restarting.
I am used to carb'd vehicles idling high until warm; some of my previous rigs (i.e. not Highboys) even have had three levels of idle when the engine is cold (start fast, run a little high, normal). I have to poke the accelerator a couple of times to put some gas into the intake, otherwise it just turns over. The spark plugs look great, so I believe my lean/rich is adjusted and the engine overall runs GREAT once started. Ignition looks stock.
I can post photos of the carb model if it will help. Thanks !
- Idaho Highboy
Thanks maytea... may need to jump on an Edel website or call the company Monday. I don't mind the multiple restarts as much as I don't like the work my starter has to perform, especially if I've been on the road all week and the highboy has sat for five+ days.
If the line needs to be re-primed that would suggested the fuel is draining back into the tank or mechanical pump/filter ? If that's the case as was mine with a Holley, I ended up ordering a 3/8 clear in-line filter that has a one way check valve built into it and it works like a champ... Now I know, I know that dosent solve the underlying issue of 'why is the fuel being pulled back' which could be a result of several things, tank vacuum, mechanical pump failure or starting to fail etc..... But my pump was new and the little filter fixed my fuel drain back issue...... Not sure if that helps... but if thats your issue, its a simple solution without over thinking the carb settings and going all out with an electric pump
Start and die sounds like a choke issue as you already suspect. One test is start and hold the throttle open a little. Will it keep running that way? If so fuel delivery is OK. I don't know Edelbrock carbs so no useful suggestion on the choke.
I do run an electric fuel pump on my two carb vehicles. The Power Wagon has a rear mounted pump on a toggle. If it has been sitting, I run the electric pump before cranking and she fires right up. Otherwise very long cranking to get fuel into the carb. I also hit the toggle when running in hot weather or for hot re-start to prevent vapor lock.
My Dent has a rear mounted electric also. Runs all the time. It has the same benefits... faster start and no hot weather vapor lock.
Anouther theory I have had is arround the design of these carbs
in most carbs the float Valle is connected to float so that when the float drops the needle vale is pulled open
in theae carbs when float drops and there is not a high line pressure the float valve will not drop so much so that if I blow to try to open it does not always want to open.
not sure if this is a common design for these type of carbs but my VW carbs are not this way
With all the fuel in the bowl there is plenty of fuel to tun the engine for 10 seconds or more, but if air or fuel can not enter it is harder for fuel in bowl to move:
i have never seen a check valve for fuel but this could be an interesting option
Guys thanks for the conversation. My real question is how / why I don't have a fast idle as part of the choke system. The butterflies are ensuring a rich mixture and my foot puts fuel into the intake manifold. I just want to eliminate the 6 - 10 "false starts" before she fires up and stays that way. Once the engine stays lit, it idles wonderfully around 600rpm. It just shouldn't take so much work to start and stay that way. Will engage Edelbrock Monday I guess...
UPDATE: Realized that I wasn't using my ears so well yesterday. I think what you all are explaining is that my re-starts are primarily due to a lack of initial sustained fuel to the carb / intake. I'll order up a one-way valve filter and place it far enough away from the carb to ensure a consistent cold-start delivery and then re-assess.
Thanks again.
Jake, thanks again for the advice re: the fuel filer with a one-way valve. I installed it and there was a lot less gas in the fuel line than I expected when I cut it open to add the filter. I appreciate your help.
Idaho Highboy -
Long term update: sharing this to ask whether anyone else had this problem. I've had two of these filters on my fuel line over the past year. Filter one just plain fell apart; thought it was an anomaly / some kind of quality issue. I've attached a photo of #2; when I asked the company what might be going on, they simply said that since this wasn't a diesel application that there was no explanation. I'm out $35 and a little time
E-85 fuel eating your plastic / rubber parts is my guess.
I remember a little while back there was a write-up on the two different kinds of WIX inline fuel filters. One was E-85 compatible, the other wasn't. The kicker is that that's no physical differences between the two, just the price.
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Carburetor Help Please 5.6
and it works like a champ... Now I know, I know that dosent solve the underlying issue of 'why is the fuel being pulled back' which could be a result of several things, tank vacuum, mechanical pump failure or starting to fail etc..... But my pump was new and the little filter fixed my fuel drain back issue...... Not sure if that helps... but if thats your issue, its a simple solution without over thinking the carb settings and going all out with an electric pump 
