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My 71 F-100 (which I now know has a 390 in it) just got rebuilt heads, a timing set, and a rebuilt Holley OE replacement carburetor as well as a rebuilt water pump, plugs, cap & rotor. I was in a bit of a rush, so I haven’t got to the points & condensor yet, but the dwell was close to 30 degrees.
Before this job, the truck didn’t like to start cold. I would have to pump the accelerator (probably to dump gas into the engine) to get it going and keep it going until it warmed up a bit. Now, I have to do pretty much the same thing. I didn’t mess with the carb at all, I just bolted it in and didn’t even have to adjust the idle. I don’t know if that’s one heck of a coincidence or the guys at Holley have a good flow bench jig or whatever.
The one thing that bothered me from the start is that most carbs that I’ve seen (mostly Webers) with automatic chokes, well choke. The choke butterfly snaps shut when the carb is cold and you simulate pushing down the accelerator. This one didn’t. I don’t know if there is something I need to adjust or not. I recall doing a carb on a 240 in a 73 F-100 that I had before this one and I didn’t have to adjust a thing. It worked fine out of the box.
Fords had an electric assist type, it's different than the all-electric ones.
Ok, yours need adjusting. On the passenger side, loosen the three screws around the big black thing and rotate it until the choke plate closes. You have to hold the throttle open while doing this so the fast idle linkage is free. Do this when the engine is cold.
Actually, I already know about adjusting the choke, I was just surprised why a rebuilt carb wasn't already adjusted....
I pulled off the "big black thing" and apparently the thermal spring wasn't mating with the fork that it should be in. I had to pull the sping out toward the carb then I put it back on and put the "black thing" right back to where it was, and everything works just great.