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What is the dash made of? I've got a break in the piece between the radio and temp controls. It's buzzing is irksome. I'll glue it together but need to get the right glue.
I have had very good luck with Max1 glue. I bought a kit on line that comes with a filler. Great stuff! I would expect it would work in the dash...especially if some of the filler is used to strengthen from the back. The filler is a white powder that when combined with the glue is very strong.
for a couple of years now on my interior painting needs. Both are damn close on color match, and they are of high quality once the paint is cured several days. That is the key in my opinion. You gotta let it cure good and hard before handling or installing after painting.
I've been thinking about this. I had to repoint my dash when I pulled some of the paint off with masking tape. (Trying to protect the dash while pulling the radio.)
I recently repaired what Dodge calls the "closeout panel" on my 1996 RT/10. It's a piece of plastic on the door, inside the jamb that seems to crack from the screw holes. They're long out of production.
I used (I can get you the name) the plastic adhesive used for plastic bumpers and panels. You need to use a special gun as it is mixed when dispensed. My local body shop had the gun and let me borrow theirs. 5 minutes curing time. I put some fiberglass screen on first...they flowed the adhesive on and pressed it together.
Stuff dries very hard, and made the Viper part much stronger.
My thinking is that you could back up the dash with another material, while the adhesive keeps it together.
I know this thread is old, but was searching for the same information recently and figured others may find this thread the same as me. I just had my '04 F-250 dash off to repair some bad cracks, and found that it is ABS and polycarbonate (dash has ABS + PC noted in the moulding stamp).
BTW, I've no idea how the P.O. broke this thing; the plastic is pretty thick.
Edit:: Going back to the original picture, that piece (that pulls out from the main dash) is actually just polycarbonate. The main dash assembly is PC + ABS.
I know this thread is old, but was searching for the same information recently and figured others may find this thread the same as me. I just had my '04 F-250 dash off to repair some bad cracks, and found that it is ABS and polycarbonate (dash has ABS + PC noted in the moulding stamp).
BTW, I've no idea how the P.O. broke this thing; the plastic is pretty thick.
Edit:: Going back to the original picture, that piece (that pulls out from the main dash) is actually just polycarbonate. The main dash assembly is PC + ABS.
Like one of the previous members said, I second the value and strength of JB Weld. I use the quick setting formula and have found it to work beautifully, especially for the holes in the barn doors that seem to wear out easily from the inner panel fasteners. Everywhere I've used it, it worked.
I have a similar issue on that area between the head unit and a/c controls. Mine isn't broken but the finish looks like crap. the head unit needs to come out so I can paint it properly.
pop the bezel out and epoxy some reinforcements in the channels and any other places that might need it. It's what I did to buy time with the crusty old plastic until I can get around to swapping a newer dash.
I used tig rod because it was in reach at the time, but even coat hanger would work.
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