A dealer local to me has this truck on the lot. It's a 2016 XL with only 4,800 miles on it. It's has the 2.7 ecoboost with 3.55 rear end. When it came in, it was completely stock. Then it disappeared for a week or so and came back looking like this. This place just can't sell a stock truck. They have to customize everything. That's fine and it looks great. I think the only thing they did was put a leveling kit on, the wheels and tinted windows. The wheels are 20" mayhems. Anyway, I am a guy who likes to use a truck as a truck so I really like to have a regular cab with an 8 foot bed. I haul anything from firewood to stone to manure if I have to. I also pull my trailer which is no big deal (6 x 12 flat bed). In the future I plan to pull a 7,000 pound dump. This truck will do all that I'm sure. My question is, did the customization diminish the capabilities of the truck in any way? I'm kind of the odd child here in that I've never bought a truck new and I never really customize my vehicles so I don't really know. At present, I have a 2007 F150 XLT with regular cab and 8 foot bed 4x4. 94,000 miles which is low but I don't hold out much hope for a good value as a trade. So, for all those customizers out there, will this truck "do it" for me?

 

I'm kind of with you thinking it might diminish the capabilities a bit. Maybe not significant, but it's got to do something. I have bought (new) a 2004 and 2007 and have a 2017 on the way and have always thought about a leveling kit, but I am towing something on a regular basis and my trucks have always leveled out with a trailer sitting on them. If I put on a leveling kit for when it's empty, I can only imagine it would squat when they're loaded, so I've always left them alone.

 

The leveling kit will make it look like the rear end is sagging when you haul a load or tow a trailer. Larger Rims and Tires will diminish the capacity of the truck somewhat. They will also make the truck ride rougher and use more gas. My 2.7 Lariat Super Crew with 355's handles 6,000 lbs with ease so I would venture to guess that truck will handle 7,000 lbs w/o any issues. The mods look tastefully done, it's a nice looking truck.

 

Looks like a leveling kit on front and a block on the back. I would ask for some OEM 18" wheels with some 275/70/18 tires and let them keep those new 20s. The factory wheels with load range E tires will give it the capabilities you want. The leveling/lift won't affect it at all. Good looking truck by the way.

 

That's strange. I figured, if anything, it's the leveling kit that would have more of an effect. I've been looking at new trucks and like the packages that come with the 20" wheels. They just look better. I don't mind these wheels although I wouldn't go out of my way to put them on myself. I dunno. This may not even happen depending on what they give me for my truck. I tend to keep my trucks for a long time so the last thing I want to do is buy the wrong thing.

 

A lot of after market wheels don't have the same weight ratings as the factory rims. Also the tire selection for 20" rims is poor when it comes to load ranges for towing. Those would be my concerns. Changing the wheel & tire size also changes the overall drive ratio, so you 355 gear may be more like a 322.

 

Those tires honestly don't look that big, not much larger than a stock 20" tire at all. Those wheels are probably rated for 3500lbs a piece, so no issue there. What I would check is the tires rating. You don't "need" E rated tires, but I always prefer them. I spent an extra $320 on my tires so they would be E rated. Much smaller chance of a blow out and more stable when loaded with the higher psi capability.

I think you would notice very little difference in performance with those wheels and tires.

 

Gottcha. One of my questions was actually going to be about the drive ratio. Thanks for all the input. I've been driving Ford trucks for years but, since I found this site, I feel like a novice. I guess I never put this much thought into my truck. Back when I started buying truck I just found one I liked, bought it and it did what I asked it to do. Regardless, I'm glad to have you guys to lean on.

 

I don't agree with the load ranges for 20" tires. They are actually quite good. Most all metric sizes are e rated, and there are lots of size options. Nitto's 295/65r20(which is about 35x11.50) is rated for over 4,000 lbs.

 

Depending on the tongue weight of your trailer, you could run into some 'push' when hooked up. Which can get a little scary at times

Now -- This is just me, just my opinion, just my $.02 worth (and over-priced at that).......

I would never lift my truck. Never. Not in a million years. You couldn't GIVE me a lifted truck. Useless.

We call them '7-eleven' trucks down here (South Florida) because that's all they're good for -- Every Friday and Saturday night, you can see them sitting in the 7-eleven parking lot talking trash about a truck that's never seen the mud, won't work, can't pull and is in the shop way too much.

Just my opinion. Doesn't mean I'm right. I'm married, so I'm never right about anything anyway

 

My trucks on 37's. It's regeared from 3.73 to 4.88, giving it the effective ratio of a factory 4.30 truck. I've got e rated tires and wheels that weight ratings far exceed my trucks rating. I've got 5" factory style blocks in the back that use the bump stops and spacers up front, so I still have my factory springs. I've got a properly built adjustable drop hitch with a huge 3/4 inch gusset. Why can't I tow anything that I could before the lift? Does my truck see mud? No, not intentionally, but it didn't before the lift either. What it does see is mountain fire roads and creek crossings.

 

My question would be why would you want to spend more for the customization if it's not what you would do anyway? You're gonna pay for it now matter how they make the deal look on paper.

 

The main issue on the tires is the sidewalls. Both the 20' and the 18" (for example) are the same outside diameter. So the difference comes with the sidewalls. An 18" wheel, with the proper tires will have a better load range than the 20" wheel. The smaller wheel/taller sidewall will also ride better, and be better off road (if you want to do that).

 

You're hardly the only person to ever disagree with me on this topic. And that's okay. I don't proclaim to be an expert (a drip under pressure).

Sounds to me like you've got the truck you want. Cool beans.

But after all the effort you went to, you managed to lift the punkins an inch or three further off the ground. Which is what usually hangs you up.

Can't clear the differential cases; What's the point?

Not knocking your ride, I'm just expressing an opinion. Suspension and Body lifts are everywhere down here. I mean -- Everywhere.

It's a thang

The Redneck Yacht Club down here (Punta Gorda, FL) is located where our Hunting Lease used to be. So maybe I'm harboring a little resentment. Or not.

If you're lifting because it's a hobby and you like it, good for you. You don't have to justify yourself to anybody. In fact, you don't have to justify yourself and what you do to your Truck any time, for any reason.

Trucks are like Newton's Third Law of Motion, for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. For everything you change on your Truck, there is bad and there is good.

YMMV

 

Im not one for leveling kits or lift kits. Pick ups are supposed to have rake, and I tow quite a bit myself..............