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I recently rebuilt the brake system in my 1970 f250 camper special with drum brakes all around. I noticed there was a scraping noise coming from the rear about 2 weeks later, so I took the left rear drum apart and found that as my drum spins this one point in the drum is contacting the shoe. How do I fix this? Is it because my shoes arent spread far enough using the star adjuster or something else entirely? I inspected my drum lining and it looks good. What are your suggestions?
Welcome to the forum! If all the hardware is in good shape, try adjusting the brakes with the star. The shoes will drag slightly for a while, until they get broke in and seated into place.
Sounds like drums are belled or out of round. A light face cut or turning will remedy this but check to see that the drums still have some meat on them. If they've been turned a few times they are prone to this I'd imagine, as they will get too hot.
Never once have a I rebuilt a set of drum brakes and not had some rubbing of the shoe against the drum for a little while until they break in. Excessive rubbing might cause me some alarm, but so long as the wheel and drum spin freely when no brake pressure is applied, you should be fine.
A little dissertation on turning drums. There is a maximum service limit on the inside diameter of any brake drum and it should not be exceeded. Also both drums on any axle (or end of the car) need to be cut to the same size or the brakes will pull. Also remember that the more you have taken out of a drum, the less contact area a new shoe will have thus the less effective the brakes will be.
My local NAPA can turn drums but don't even have the tool to measure them, can't tell you what size they were cut to. Get someone who knows brakes to do this, not a parts flunky.
Thanks for all the replies! Nothing pulls so i guess ill just give it some time to break in. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something out of the ordinary
Often have a little rubbing when first re-doing drum brakes. One time I bought and installed new drums for a '96 ranger. One trip around the block and one side of a new drum was so hot it turned purple. The hub portion was not centered with the braking surface. Napa exchanged the drum.
Yes, if you're unfamiliar with brakes it's not a bad plan to read the manual, both for your safety and others. Brake drums by design have virtually no clearance. In fact they won't work right (self-adjusters) if the wheel spins free and the pedal will be low and mushy.
Napa is apparently getting some really crappy gookaneese drums and rotors.
Back in my day we turned drums on an Ammo 4000 and then we custom arc ground the shoe to match the inside diameter of the drum. Those days are long gone as OSHA would have a fit at that practice with all the asbestos fibers in the air. Asbestos linings were the best brake linings ever though!
A little dissertation on turning drums. There is a maximum service limit on the inside diameter of any brake drum and it should not be exceeded. Also both drums on any axle (or end of the car) need to be cut to the same size or the brakes will pull. Also remember that the more you have taken out of a drum, the less contact area a new shoe will have thus the less effective the brakes will be.
My local NAPA can turn drums but don't even have the tool to measure them, can't tell you what size they were cut to. Get someone who knows brakes to do this, not a parts flunky.
2x with willowbilly but it would be good if you can post a photo or two of where the rubbing is so were all on the same page as what's happening on yours problem. For everyone's safety..
Orich