Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.

 

There has been previous discussion on this and several people say their filter housing drains after shut down and they have no running issues. I can say for sure, mine doesn't even after a few days.

Maybe it is draining down the fuel return line back to the tank.

 

Several months back I noticed my fuel pressure gauge indicated a drop on fuel pressure. One of the symptoms was the bowl draining empty once the engine was shut off.

Turns out the rubber O-ring on the brass nipple that is part of the blue spring kit had deteriorated and began letting fuel leak past. When the bowl does drain empty, it's going past this o-ring (barring an injector issue or something in the opposite direction).

If I didn't have the fuel pressure gauge, I would've never known there was an issue until something else reared its head.

Maybe check the o-ring.

Keep us posted and good luck.

 

Sorry it took a while to get back. I have not had a chance to look into this yet.
I could be mistaken but all the fuel filters Iv replaced while owning this truck I do not recall the bowl ever being empty.
I will check the oring in the regulator and see how it looks.
I did remove the standpipe from the bowl a few days ago to do a bubble test. While turning engine over I do have some bubbles coming up. Not a lot. Just One like every 5 seconds or so. Which is still a problem which needs addressing.

 

I can start the truck up and have huge cloud of light colored smoke at startup. Then smoke goes to a puff. I have a hard time smelling of the smoke of fuel or oil. I got a compression test set from HF and it does not have a fitting to fit the glow plug hole. So I have to get something else to check compression with and go from there.

 

If the bubble test is a fail. Then it's allowing fuel to leak by, compression testing that hole with a leaking injector is a failed test.

 

If you have bubbles than you have a problem. Either a pintle is not sealing or a copper crush washer seal on the injector is leaking allowing compression to be pushed into the fuel rail and up the line to the fuel filter housing.
See my movie.

With the fuel filter standpipe removed, crank the engine using the starter trigger wire. Make note of what port the bubbles come from. Follow that port line to decipher what bank is causing the bubbles.
Next pull one glow plug at a time and retest until the bubbles stop. Now you know this is the cylinder causing bubbles. Pull the injector and inspect crush seal and lower oring on the injector body for any signs of damage and leakage. Also pressurize the injector tip with shop air and see if air bleeds out the fuel inlet screens on the injector body.
See my other movie.

​​​Once the repair or replacement is complete ALWAYS go back and retest to CONFIRM the repair incase you had multiple issues.

 

Thanks for the information guys. I knew this injector needed to be taken care of. I have not been able to pinpoint which one it is yet.

I like the method of removing 1 glowplug at a time and checking for bubbles again.

As a added note I am suspecting cylinder #7 because I had a code pop up for glow plug circuit 7. I replaced it with a new OEM. I ran the engine for a good while since in the driveway when I have my AE hooked up trying to see anything that don't look right.
The other day when I tried the compression test and removed the plug from #7 it was clean as a whistle. I was expecting some soot of some degree.

 

Remove the FICM relay while doing this to avoid hurting it and keep the charger connected to the batteries. Don't crank to long on the starter to avoid over heating it.