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Hey, Gents...
Almost done with the carb rebuild (yay!) and looking at the Throttle Kicker (mine is the CA vacuum version) and the research I've done would indicate that it "is what it is" ... meaning that it as long as it is functioning (which it appears to be) you basically don't mess with it. It's set up to look like it has an adjustable throw (threaded shaft in the bracket with a lock nut) but that sucker isn't moving (don't worry... I was gentle ) ... are these factory set, or are they meant to be adjustable? There's no mention of adjustment in the Engine Manual... so I'm guessing just leave it alone.
It may be an optical illusion, but the threads next to the mount seem to have been buggered at some point. That may be why it is fighting you. Have you tried a penetrating lubricant?
It may be an optical illusion, but the threads next to the mount seem to have been buggered at some point. That may be why it is fighting you. Have you tried a penetrating lubricant?
... you're right... it does appear that way... but no... the threads are in great shape... the "locking" nut (not pictured) came off no problem. I would expect that if it were meant to be adjustable, it wouldn't be threaded in all the way down to the seat of the plunger. I've tried may a penetrating oil... I'm a big fan of Kroil... One issue is... there's nothing really solid to grab it with to turn it... certainly not the plastic plunger body.
I agree - double-nut it and turn it from the outside nut. Maybe put a lock washer between the nuts and place it so the edges will dig into the nuts as they are tightened.
... yup... got it with the double nut trick... thx for the reminder... but it was definitely wound down hard to the base of the flange.
Back to the question about adjustment... is there an adjust procedure? I'm not seeing anything about it in any of the official Ford docs. Worst case I'll just wind it down to the base of the plunger and go with that.
thx much, Gary... Vacuum version, yes. In reading this... and based on its function, it seems the Throttle Kicker would want to be at its resting state just below the throttle resting state at idle. I have about 1/4" of gap there... could be adjusted a bit closer, it seems.
I know this is a crazy stupid detail... but it's more about the learning process of how it all works... and understanding the insane number of reliant systems that go into fine tuning the workings of the ICE!
I, too, like to know how it works, how it should be adjusted, etc.
Wrapping my head around this a bit more... and someone please correct me if I'm wrong here... but from the description of its function... sounds like it's basically a throttle return governor... dampening the speed at which the throttle returns to idle position during rapid deceleration in an effort to limit a momentary rich mixture, ie. controlling emissions. The vacuum version is only on the 7.5L CA vehicles (me) and something similar on the 5.8L as well.
The action of the plunger is that when vacuum (-10-20 kpa) is applied from a deceleration signal (haven't traced this yet ) the plunger extends to the throttle arm restricting its full return to idle... and due to a small vent hole, slowly allows the vacuum to escape thus easing the speed of the throttle return. In order for it to fully operate I would imagine that the adjustment should be to set it at it's resting state with minimal gap to the throttle, allowing the throttle to sit at idle... so the system makes use of the plunger's entire throw.
There's an electronic version of this control that is essentially controlling idle speed when activated (start/run) and fully closes the carb valves when off... intended to prevent dieseling when the engine is shut off.