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Electric winch suggestions..?

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Old May 16, 2017 | 01:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
Ditto, I would never rely on the winch to "Tie down" the front of my car. Always use straps. I do leave the winch attached(loosely) just so I don't have to reach down to attach/unlatch.

I met up with some racers a couple weeks ago and they were using the winch to hold the front of a very nice, freshly painted race car. They were all about "not scratching" the car as it was the first time out. I heard them mention about the winch holding the front. I was like.....

To each their own, but after 22 yrs of hauling cars I would not rely on a winch brake to hold anything. I cringe when I see people using those 1" straps from Harbor freight .
Yep, race shop owner that's does work on my car had that issue a few years ago. Semi slightly cut him off on highway, forcing quick avoidance maneuver and race car inside his trailer got slammed up against side wall. Cosmetic damage was minimal, made it look more like a race car . They now tow strap the race car. I have always used tow straps, 5K rating, got to much invested not to.
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 03:26 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
I cringe when I see people using those 1" straps from Harbor freight .
But if you use enough of them it makes up for the lack of quality, right?
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 10:46 PM
  #18  
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I would think that most look at the rating and figure, 4 x 1K lb= 4000# and that is plenty for a car. Okay, as long as its not my car and trailer or anywhere NEAR me on the highway.

I actually remember a guy hauling his T/A around on an open trailer and not even tying it down!!! Yup, put in park and away he went. I just shake my head.

I know a guy that lost his antique truck out the back of an enclosed trailer. Only used two straps(one front/one back) and it worked one loose and the truck rocked and broke the other and actually broke the door down and rolled out of the trailer!!!! Luckily no one was hurt when the trucked rolled to a stop in the middle of the road.

You can't make these stories up. Tragic.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 05:48 AM
  #19  
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Great I out here , thanks guys.

Strangely my straps always work loose loose no matter what. I strap hem down tight when I load the car, and upon arrival the front strap has slack. I can't figure it out.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 07:30 AM
  #20  
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I don't put my straps on the frame. If I do that then my straps do loosen up. Instead, my straps are on the tires. I use tire bonnets.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 07:58 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
Strangely my straps always work loose loose no matter what. I strap hem down tight when I load the car, and upon arrival the front strap has slack. I can't figure it out.
Do you use four straps?

I've never had issues, I tie two into the crossmember under radiator and two on the rear axle tube. I don't cross the rear like some do because of the wheelie bars. It has never moved or come loose.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 08:51 PM
  #22  
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One strap on the front pulling forward on the RF frame horn and another strap on the rear; crossing left to right and pulling straight down on the frame/bumper. (Mostly straight down- but backwards also)

Sorry for all the typos - I have more typos on this web site than anywhere else I type.

I like the tire bonnet idea. But I have very very little room between the trailer walls and the side of the race car. Does this make it hard to use tire bonnets?
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
I like the tire bonnet idea. But I have very very little room between the trailer walls and the side of the race car. Does this make it hard to use tire bonnets?
Maybe. I have tire bonnets front and rear, both sides. There are tie downs in front of the vehicle and in back of the vehicle. Between the front/rear, not so much. So I connected the front and rear tire bonnets. That seems to work pretty well and I only need access to the front and rear of the vehicle. I have only had the trailer on pavement so it hasn't seen any rough stuff. So far the vehicle hasn't moved. I only have about 2" of space between the roll cage and cabinets on both sides. So I'll know - the hard way - if it shifts.
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 08:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
One strap on the front pulling forward on the RF frame horn and another strap on the rear; crossing left to right and pulling straight down on the frame/bumper. (Mostly straight down- but backwards also)
There's your problem. It's moving the car around since you aren't pulling it at four corners evenly. Get two more straps(they aren't that expensive) and you'll be fine. I buy the straps for the rear that have the axle strap built in. No fussing with separate pieces(to loose). Just flip it over the axle and clip it and tighten it down. The fronts I don't mess with(unloosen). I winch the car in, hook the front straps on the crossmember(which puts it in the same spot every time), loosen the winch and pull the back tight. Really simple procedure.
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 11:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
There's your problem. It's moving the car around since you aren't pulling it at four corners evenly. Get two more straps(they aren't that expensive) and you'll be fine. I buy the straps for the rear that have the axle strap built in. No fussing with separate pieces(to loose). Just flip it over the axle and clip it and tighten it down. The fronts I don't mess with(unloosen). I winch the car in, hook the front straps on the crossmember(which puts it in the same spot every time), loosen the winch and pull the back tight. Really simple procedure.
That is kind of how I do my car on my open trailer.
2 straps with axle straps built in for the rear but I cross them going around the leaf springs just in front of the axle tubes.
I only use 1 strap up front around the front cross member and get it some what tight then tighten down in the rear.


After a short pull down the road like before getting fuel or on the high way I check all the straps and take up any play.


As for a winch I use a 2 speed hand boat winch with enough cable to reach 20 feet pass the ramps, never know when you can't get close to a non-running car. I use hi speed on flat ground but when I hit the ramps I put it in low and up it comes.


If I ever get an enclosed trailer I will spring for an electric winch mounted to the floor with a backer plate on the under side and a big batt. on the front A frame in a box.
Dave ----
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 09:09 PM
  #26  
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liken the thread. good thoughts around!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 04:10 PM
  #27  
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The whole reason I wanted a winch has been eliminated.

If you're curious:
I had my race car transmission (4spd manual) modified to remove all the parts for 1st and 2nd gear. The idea is the reduction of rotating weight/parasitic loss.

Well, I got it done. And my race car drives ALMOST perfectly normally in 3rd gear (green flag laps I run 4th of course). It does smell like clutch disc after parking it in the trailer, but certainly not enough for me to spend $200-300 on a winch.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 02:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Im50fast
It does smell like clutch disc after parking it in the trailer, but certainly not enough for me to spend $200-300 on a winch.
What's a new clutch cost? Think a winch might be cheaper.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 08:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pikapp
What's a new clutch cost? Think a winch might be cheaper.
I like how you think
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #30  
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Wow, no 1-2 gear. Ya, that would be a bummer to load on a trailer(or even get started from a stop). I know roundy round guys run those special light weight transmissions with only 2-3 gears. Road course usually have 4 spds in them.

I would definitely spend the money on a winch. My nash box has 3.25 first and 4.56 rear and I still winch mine, every time. I have a McLeod soft lok style clutch(custom built).
 
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