1950 generator issue
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Miles City, Mt
Sorry ! I posted to wrong topic.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Should have known what the problem was. Thing is, brushes normally last a looong time, and I installed a pro-fessionally rebuilt generator, so they "couldn't" be bad, right?
The first test the manual sez in the event of trouble (well, check the belt!) is install a jumper cable from battery negative post to the ground terminal on the generator. Then check output.
If you have an ohmmeter capable of handling 30+ Amps you can perform an Output Test. My generator passed this test too. Everything pointed towards the regulator, but I had two good ones, and while it was possible they were both defective I knew that was unlikely. What had happened, the brushes were never seated with sandpaper against the commutator. Noticed it was noisy when first installed, but I didn't know any better.
What happened, one brush was basically unused (stuck) in the holder, the other one was wore down almost to the limit and all burned up. Once brushes wear to a certain point, the springs no longer keep pressure on them. Less than 2000 miles! So this is something to check.
Can try motoring a generator on the bench, this isn't definitive but it is an indication. Jumper the ARM and FLD and apply battery power to ARM and ground. Generator should spool up quickly and smoothly and run at a good clip, not slow or lumpy.
The first test the manual sez in the event of trouble (well, check the belt!) is install a jumper cable from battery negative post to the ground terminal on the generator. Then check output.
If you have an ohmmeter capable of handling 30+ Amps you can perform an Output Test. My generator passed this test too. Everything pointed towards the regulator, but I had two good ones, and while it was possible they were both defective I knew that was unlikely. What had happened, the brushes were never seated with sandpaper against the commutator. Noticed it was noisy when first installed, but I didn't know any better.
What happened, one brush was basically unused (stuck) in the holder, the other one was wore down almost to the limit and all burned up. Once brushes wear to a certain point, the springs no longer keep pressure on them. Less than 2000 miles! So this is something to check.
Can try motoring a generator on the bench, this isn't definitive but it is an indication. Jumper the ARM and FLD and apply battery power to ARM and ground. Generator should spool up quickly and smoothly and run at a good clip, not slow or lumpy.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Camino, CA
So, fellow members i figured I would add to the data base for starting issues. I was having generator issues and my starting issues (bad timing) decided to add to it. In the end I think it is fixed. The problem started with the faulty polarization of the rebuilt generator. That is fixed now but i think I was super sensitive to truck issues when the truck would not start. In the end, after replacing the battery twice, regulator twice, starter solenoid twice, push button starter once, ignition switch once, it was my starter that was the issue. I tried to pull the starter and it came apart in my hands and basically the guts of the starter would not come free of the motor. I found a post that said I should place the truck in 3rd gear and rock it. The rest of the starter popped free when I did this. The gear was not in good shape on the starter so in the end either the starter had failed or it jammed in the fly wheel and prevented it from starting. Just figured I would offer my thanks to all of you for the advice.
Gap
Gap
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
There's nothing to hold the starter together after you take out the two long bolts. That's not a sign of damage. Just makes things a big PITA. But starter problems are not uncommon with this old of vehicles.
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