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I finally got around to changing all my fluids last weekend, front and rear diff, transmission, transfer case, fuel filters, all of it. I also replaced all my covers with the magtech covers. For you naysayers that dont think the provide additional cooling, i dont care, they look cool lol. The wife and i went to bristol last weekend for the race and i hauled our camper and everything was fine. Noticed quite a bit of fluid on my left rear shock on monday and figured i just blew the shock out. So i checked the rear diff today for ****s and giggles and ill be damned... For those who dont know, the magtech covers come with a dipstick with a magnet on the end. So when i pulled it to check the fluid it was covered in shavings. Not to mention the fluid was nasty even though its only a week old. So i guess my real question is, is it time for a new differential setup or should i just check it again in a week and see if maybe i get lucky and theres no more metal?
SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant
Quantity: 6.9 pints
If you have a limited slip rear differential you also need 8 ounces of Additive Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A unless you use a synthetic that declares it's not necessary such as Valvoline or Royal Purple.
If you google " 52148 seal " you'll see many leads. For whatever reason the original motorcraft #2C3Z-3254-AA isn't showing. Spicer and national both offer the seal.
The new fluid already had friction modifier in it. I didnt notice and shavings when i changed it last week although it was pretty dark and a little thick. I just figured it was because no one had ever changed it.
Any limited slip differential or "posi" needs a friction modifier. Last time I did the rear end on my Mustang I accidentally forgot to add it in and started hearing (and feeling) a clunking noise and then looked on the shelf and realized what I did. I did a full swap on fluid again. I have magnets on the housing and noticed a little metal, but after new fluid with additive all is well and runs fine. I always just buy the friction modifier separate and add it in, I've heard of issues with fluid that supposedly has adddative already and just never trusted it.
I think you should be good if you do another fluid change with the additive.
lol thanks, ill change it out tomorrow and give it a couple days and check it again
Pull the cover and with a pry bar check horizontal play. If there is any play then the ring gear carrier bearings are disintegrating. Also check pinion movement for a failed pinion bearing.
The metal is coming from somewhere. The LS has fiber disks. Also if you used full Syn (75w-140) it already has the friction modifier in it. It is not needed.
. Here's a failed carrier bearing that I caught just before a 1300 mile trip double towing my 5er and flatbed trailer.
Pull the cover and with a pry bar check horizontal play. If there is any play then the ring gear carrier bearings are disintegrating. Also check pinion movement for a failed pinion bearing.
The metal is coming from somewhere. The LS has fiber disks. Also if you used full Syn (75w-140) it already has the friction modifier in it. It is not needed.
. Here's a failed carrier bearing that I caught just before a 1300 mile trip double towing my 5er and flatbed trailer.
I put hands on everything when I swapped the cover last week. The backlash seemed right, though I don't have a gauge, all the teeth looked good on the ring, I did notice what looked like a gouge in the limited slip assembly but don't know what would even cause that lol.
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