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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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Re wiring

Im looking at re wiring my 71 f250 but I dont know if I should do it myself or have someone do it ive done wiring before but that was with a manual and now u can't buy manuals for this truck any more
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 05:08 PM
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I have replaced my complete harness. I used the schematic found here. Ford Truck Technical Drawings and Schematics - Section H - Wiring Diagrams
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 05:10 PM
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Also 1971 Ford Truck Shop Manual Download
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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First thing I do when I get a new car is get the diagram from classiccarwiring.com. They're laminated and printed on both sides, full color. Much easier for me to follow.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Evan Ruff
First thing I do when I get a new car is get the diagram from classiccarwiring.com. They're laminated and printed on both sides, full color. Much easier for me to follow.
YUP!
also, I looked at places that sold complete harness's and have so far only found them at NPD (National Parts Depot) somewhere in the $750 range. Surely they would include some sort of instructions? I would be curious to know if there are any other suppliers out there though.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:04 AM
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Kriswat33,

I'm not a pro, but have done a number of vehicles, and many sub-systems. I was forced to do my own on the truck, as there were so many mods. 3G alternator, extra cable for heavy accessories, and a dozen extra fuses. I wanted more room for thermal reset fuses, and expansion for some toys. If you do it yourself, there is a lot to learn. Here are some off the top of my head:

For hot areas, use wire and loom rated for under-hood temperatures. Good loom has a grey stripe on it, and is made of Nylon. Fancier stuff is available, but the regular parts-store loom will crack in heat and oil/gas environments.

Learn about "double-wall" heat shrink tubing. It has hot-melt glue on the inside as a seal.

This is the time to provide relays for the headlights. See "better brights" G**gle search.

Some wires should be made bigger, but not the circuit for the "pink wire".

If you want to plug modern electrics like phones into your cigar lighter, you might want to learn about "transients and surges".

Do learn how to properly crimp "Packard Connectors".

The under-hood area, and switches will need attention before the rest.

You might want to buy a kit of sealed connectors right at the beginning. Also the required crimper. They are brand-specific (usually).

It isn't cheap either. I've got 3-4 hundred bucks in left-over materials!

All-in-all, most guys ought to buy a harness, and spend their time getting it installed properly and all the seals in the right place. You might modify, or add to a more basic kit. All depends on your skill, time, and budget.

FTE members will help you through the tough parts if you aren't in a rush.

Luck!
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:10 AM
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If you can PM f100today (Tim), he might be able to get you a good price on a harness from American Autowire. Here is his Profile:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=614448
 
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Old May 2, 2017 | 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 67nukeford
If you can PM f100today (Tim), he might be able to get you a good price on a harness from American Autowire. Here is his Profile:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=614448
Willing and able!
 
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:22 AM
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I've been at this a long time and never bought a harness. Not saying it's a bad idea. I usually just replace subsystems or repair damaged areas although I have completely wired a few hotrods.
Like 1972-34ton said, there are many modernizations many of us want. The 3G is one of my favorite mods. More circuits for sound systems and other accessories, volt meter is a must for me. Trailer brakes. You'll see that the original wiring and electrical system leaves a lot to be desired.
I'm not too scientific. I use good wire and common crimp connectors. When I can get them, I like the un-insulated ones with heat shrink. Use a good stripper and a separate crimper, not those cheap multifunction tool. I have an old Thomas and Betts crimper I like real well. Channel-loc makes a similar one.
I'm not sure it matters but I always crimp with the seam in the terminal into the saddle part of the crimper so the crimp divot is not on the seam as that seems to distort the terminal.
 
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