new engine install is a pain!!!
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 649
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From: Monterey bay area
new engine install is a pain!!!
for those of you who don't know of my Bronco's current status
you can tune in here
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...hreadid=146897
The Edelbrock performer heads looked great and the packaging was second to none. all of the thermactor air passages are there and are made so the stock emissions/front accessory equipment bolts right on without fabrication or as CARB would call it, "modification". Bunch of hall monitors!! hehee
(warning:you cannot use stock exh gaskets, go with the black Mr.Gasket type as the exh ports are rather large)
Anyhow, I removed the nicely ported non emissions heads and spent another 30 something dollars on the Ford Racing head gaskets....(these make Felpros look like something cut out of cardboard) very nice units...
I dressed each coolant/oil return passage with a light bead of copper seal silicone I installed the gaskets (pay attention to the front of each gasket one will go down a certain way and the opposite side will be turned upside down exhibiting a different color....after beading the upper surface I put the heads down on the shortblock and they lined up perfectly. I used the moly lube to dress the head bolt threads the tensioning surface below the head of the bolt. Torqued the heads down with the proper sequence and began to install the 7/16's ARP rocker studs (if the heads came with 3/8's screw in studs go ahead and get the 7/16's they will bolt right in as the threads are all for 7/16's)(use the blue loc tite to keep the studs on the heads)
I installed the trick flow hardened pushrods (get the best ones as this is a part that takes a royal beating) installed the presoaked comp cams pro mag roller rockers (presoaked them in marvel mystery oil and prolong) I also used moly grease in the pushrod cup portio of the rockers for proper break in.
once I adjusted these to zero lash I primed the oil pump with a ratchet
(make sure to duct tape the extensions AND the socket together as you don't want anything falling into the dist mounting access hole after your oil pan is on....or you will find out what I had to go through) Also use the blue loctite
on the oil pan bolts especially the hard to reach ones above the crossmember
Once the engine is primed with oil, the lifters will get hyd pressure and then it is time to recheck valve lash on the roller rockers.
once the lash was properly adjusted I set the #1 to TDC and installed the dizzy....and on went the NGK plugs (make sure to use antiseize on plug threads if using aluminum heads) and the ford racing 9mm plug wires (nice units)
on went the EGR selenoids, coil, frontal brackets, exhaust headers (use anti sieze on the threads if using alum heads)
alternator, air pump etc.....
I wish I could post a pic of this beast....all aluminum was heat dispersant coated black....valve covers are the famed finned motorsport covers
(had to grind the three bumps off and remove the baffles to clear roller rockers) With these valve covers, one must also slightly mod the PCV setup and remove the 1 inch hose that connects to the rear of intake....by using a 4-5 inch flexible rubber hose I was able to make it work.
Get the new flexplates from ford....it is worth the money, these come factory balanced with a pre set bolt sequence....it won't just bolt right on....one is offset to keep the weight at the right spot. Use silicone sealer on the bolt threads to avoid oil leakage into the bellhousing or separator)
Now the engine is in....and the thing won't line up to the transmission....
the trans has moved back a bit and is giving me fits....trying to move it forward to bolt the torque converter studs into the flexplate.
other than this, the process is straight forward. I cannot wait to see the dyno results of the added airflow.
Next on the agenda (within two weeks)is the Bassani Y pipe and the diablo chip....stay tuned.
Roberto
PS if I can get someone to host pics I will forward them to you for viewing.
you can tune in here
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...hreadid=146897
The Edelbrock performer heads looked great and the packaging was second to none. all of the thermactor air passages are there and are made so the stock emissions/front accessory equipment bolts right on without fabrication or as CARB would call it, "modification". Bunch of hall monitors!! hehee
(warning:you cannot use stock exh gaskets, go with the black Mr.Gasket type as the exh ports are rather large)Anyhow, I removed the nicely ported non emissions heads and spent another 30 something dollars on the Ford Racing head gaskets....(these make Felpros look like something cut out of cardboard) very nice units...
I dressed each coolant/oil return passage with a light bead of copper seal silicone I installed the gaskets (pay attention to the front of each gasket one will go down a certain way and the opposite side will be turned upside down exhibiting a different color....after beading the upper surface I put the heads down on the shortblock and they lined up perfectly. I used the moly lube to dress the head bolt threads the tensioning surface below the head of the bolt. Torqued the heads down with the proper sequence and began to install the 7/16's ARP rocker studs (if the heads came with 3/8's screw in studs go ahead and get the 7/16's they will bolt right in as the threads are all for 7/16's)(use the blue loc tite to keep the studs on the heads)
I installed the trick flow hardened pushrods (get the best ones as this is a part that takes a royal beating) installed the presoaked comp cams pro mag roller rockers (presoaked them in marvel mystery oil and prolong) I also used moly grease in the pushrod cup portio of the rockers for proper break in.
once I adjusted these to zero lash I primed the oil pump with a ratchet
(make sure to duct tape the extensions AND the socket together as you don't want anything falling into the dist mounting access hole after your oil pan is on....or you will find out what I had to go through) Also use the blue loctite
on the oil pan bolts especially the hard to reach ones above the crossmember
Once the engine is primed with oil, the lifters will get hyd pressure and then it is time to recheck valve lash on the roller rockers.
once the lash was properly adjusted I set the #1 to TDC and installed the dizzy....and on went the NGK plugs (make sure to use antiseize on plug threads if using aluminum heads) and the ford racing 9mm plug wires (nice units)
on went the EGR selenoids, coil, frontal brackets, exhaust headers (use anti sieze on the threads if using alum heads)
alternator, air pump etc.....
I wish I could post a pic of this beast....all aluminum was heat dispersant coated black....valve covers are the famed finned motorsport covers
(had to grind the three bumps off and remove the baffles to clear roller rockers) With these valve covers, one must also slightly mod the PCV setup and remove the 1 inch hose that connects to the rear of intake....by using a 4-5 inch flexible rubber hose I was able to make it work.
Get the new flexplates from ford....it is worth the money, these come factory balanced with a pre set bolt sequence....it won't just bolt right on....one is offset to keep the weight at the right spot. Use silicone sealer on the bolt threads to avoid oil leakage into the bellhousing or separator)
Now the engine is in....and the thing won't line up to the transmission....
the trans has moved back a bit and is giving me fits....trying to move it forward to bolt the torque converter studs into the flexplate.
other than this, the process is straight forward. I cannot wait to see the dyno results of the added airflow.
Next on the agenda (within two weeks)is the Bassani Y pipe and the diablo chip....stay tuned.
Roberto
PS if I can get someone to host pics I will forward them to you for viewing.
