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I just got a great deal from www.motorcityreman.com today. They are building me a 200A 3G ONE WIRE alt for $219. It puts out 100A at idle, and a lifetime warranty for $20 extra. Pretty good deal if you ask me. If they don't have it listed on their site, so you'll have to call and ask specifically. Ask for Ray, and he'll build whatever you need.
Well, I don't want to say you're "paying for a name" with Powermaster, because they ARE top-notch products. However, I feel they are a little overpriced.
I did a lot of comparisons, and Powermasters are pretty much the most expensive (and well known) out there. I really couldn't justify paying double for a shiny black powder-coated case and cool sticker on there.
IMO a 200A alternator w/ 100A at idle, from a reputable builder with a lifetime warranty was plenty good enough for me, so that's the way I went.
As far as an alt frying your battery, that's up to the voltage regulator, not the alternator. Just because it is rated at X amperage doesn't mean that it is constantly putting it out. The regulator flows current as needed.
Think about this. Your car or truck didn't come with a high output alt. Probably something under a 100 amps. The wires carrying the current aren't always big enough to handle high amps. Old or degragded wires are even worse.
Also when you charge a battery from a 120v source what setting do you put it on? Most likely the 2 amp setting. Stuffing 150+ amps into your battery over time will kill it sooner than it should die. High amps charging a battery will warp the lead plates leaving less surface area for the acid solution to touch causing a loss in power from the battery.
Now if you have a constant use for those amps your battery should be fine. On my 95 150 I had a 90 amp alt and upgraded to a 130. I run 8 100 watt lights. So thats about 57 amps. Obviously in the winter with the heater blower going and everything else the alt can't keep up forever. I do long drives ranging from 3-10 hours. I installed dual batteries to combat the power loss. The second deep cycle battery is isolated and powers the aux lighting systems. On the drive cycles where I do not need light they get charged up. I also installed a trickle charger so when the truck is plugged in it charges the batts.
I kinda figured that since someone would consider installing a hi amp alternator, they already pretty much know what they need. (my bad.) Installing a deep cycle battery (or red top, at least,) and new power, ground, alt. wiring etc... pretty much go without saying, and should be done FIRST!!
Yes! agreed it would be quite stupid dropping a 200A alternator right into a stock setup.
I see a lot of people that put in big alts to power stereo systems and they have no idea what there doing. Some friend says get a HUGE alt and your good. Then they have problems. This is a case where more is not better.
With your planned upgrades, a 130A should be plenty. If you're lucky, you may even find an OEM one from a Lincoln or Crown Vic at a junkyard. If you can, try to upgrade the alt+ to battery lead to 8, or even 4 AWG cable also.
P.S. I just noticed your pulley kit. If you have an aftermarket pulley on the alternator, take it off, and use the stock 6 groove to keep your new alt spinning at the proper output
Just my 0.02, I am a Mustang guy primarily.... in the mustang and muscle car world PA Performance is king with the reputation and warranty. I think they offer 200 a units, but the reputation is key. check them out when you can www.pa-performance.com
I got this for H O Alternators, check out their numbers on idle output. Is this real?
"We can replace your alternator with our 200 amp model #7768-200. Our alternator will directly replace the stock alternator, with no need for brackets or messing with the wire harness. The only change you will make is the output from the alternator to the battery. We recommend 4 gauge or larger. Depending on what your idle speed is (since every vehicle is different) I will provide some outputs at their respected RPM speed.
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