header woes
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8th Gear
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header woes
Heres what I got. 1984 F150 4x4 solidfront axle from a 79' bronco. 460 engine swap in. np435 manualtransmission/np208 transfercase. I have tried 2 different sets of hedman headers last set was #(89340). its for a f250 of that year so I guess there are differences in the frame width or configuration. I know someone has done this swap with headers please point me in the right direction>>>>>> thankyou.
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From: Orlando area
The headers for a 460 in a F250 4x4 should be the same as for a 460 in a F150 4X4.
Other than one truck having leaf springs and the other having coil springs - the frame width and engine spacing should be the same.
What problems are you having? I assume it must be due the transmission/clutch linkage.
I use the Hedman 89280 (however my truck has the C6)
Other than one truck having leaf springs and the other having coil springs - the frame width and engine spacing should be the same.
What problems are you having? I assume it must be due the transmission/clutch linkage.
I use the Hedman 89280 (however my truck has the C6)
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8th Gear
Joined: Apr 2017
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well on the passenger side the inner header tube wont fit between the bellhousing where the starter goes and the frame if I could get to the hollow spot inside the tubes I believe it would fit around the starter and bellhousing but I cant get the angle to make it get through. it lacks like an inch. I even picked the whole engine up unbolted the trans/transfercase mount and moved it all as far to the drivers side as I could and the geometery still didn't allow it to position itself correctly. I am going to try bending the inner tube to see if it lets me in. im baffled.
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From: Orlando area
The passenger side is tight.
I had to notch the frame a little on mine - which is perfectly acceptable/normal to do.
Not sure if these photos will help or not, but I already had them uploaded to Photobucket. You can sort of see the starter clearance.
I ended up notching about a 1/4" in two places.
I had to notch the frame a little on mine - which is perfectly acceptable/normal to do.
Not sure if these photos will help or not, but I already had them uploaded to Photobucket. You can sort of see the starter clearance.
I ended up notching about a 1/4" in two places.
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Are you sure headers are worth it? I am the local header hater. Yes I have run them, sometimes the slight horsepower increase is not worth the hassle. Yes, if I was trying win races, but trying to get to work everyday on the street or hauling firewood, etc. I am not sure. Even mall cruising, it would not seem worth it, cast iron manifolds can sound just as good with the right mufflers.
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From: Foothills of NC
Are you sure headers are worth it? I am the local header hater. Yes I have run them, sometimes the slight horsepower increase is not worth the hassle. Yes, if I was trying win races, but trying to get to work everyday on the street or hauling firewood, etc. I am not sure. Even mall cruising, it would not seem worth it, cast iron manifolds can sound just as good with the right mufflers.
I have put several sets on for myself, and more on for friends. I never saw one ounce of improvement in performance with a stock engine. One friend hated his so much that he finally sold his beautiful black 1969 Ranger XLT other than go through the expense of reverting back to stock exhaust. He could never get a good seal to the heads on one side.
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You get what you pay for. Better quality headers like Hooker and LandL have very thick mounting flanges. They don't leak.
I have had no leakage problems with the Hedman brand. Also quality gaskets make a difference, and you can put some high temp silicone around the port if needed.
If your going to buy headers you need to pay extra for the ceramic coating (or similar) so they don't rust. Painted headers wont last.
They are a tight fit and a pain to install (because of the large tubes), but they do increase HP noticeably when the rest of the engine is built up.
If you can't get the exhaust out of the head, you can't get the fresh a/f in. Stock manifolds on a "built engine" are like putting a 450cfm carb on the BB engine (restricts flow). Lastly, the rest of the exhaust needs to be complimentary - meaning high flow muffler with large pipes with smooth bends.
I have had no leakage problems with the Hedman brand. Also quality gaskets make a difference, and you can put some high temp silicone around the port if needed.
If your going to buy headers you need to pay extra for the ceramic coating (or similar) so they don't rust. Painted headers wont last.
They are a tight fit and a pain to install (because of the large tubes), but they do increase HP noticeably when the rest of the engine is built up.
If you can't get the exhaust out of the head, you can't get the fresh a/f in. Stock manifolds on a "built engine" are like putting a 450cfm carb on the BB engine (restricts flow). Lastly, the rest of the exhaust needs to be complimentary - meaning high flow muffler with large pipes with smooth bends.
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