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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

installing head gaskets.

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Old Apr 15, 2017 | 10:02 PM
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installing head gaskets.

hey all, i have a1972 F250. Can any tell me what is involved in replacing them? Is fairly easy or is it a nightmare? Thank you for your advice.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by scottzilla
hey all, i have a1972 F250. Can any tell me what is involved in replacing them? Is fairly easy or is it a nightmare? Thank you for your advice.
It can be just as you say. Some times the oil pump drive rod will drop down into pan. Which if not reinstalling the drive rod will lead to the next time the dizzy is pulled the oil drive rod will once again fall into pan.

The pan an pump will need to being removed to install the new rod correctly.

Ford poor designer of this way has cause more problem the older these engine have not been apart or rebuilt. Poorly cared for and wrong oils used in these engines.
Or wrongly assemble of the oil pump drive rod with the retainer washer install upside down the lets the rod move upward while someone is trying to removing the dizzy.

Or the engine will come apart as it was intended with not big issues.
Many people have trouble figuring out which way the head gaskets go on

One goes on say with up then the driver side goes on with Front upside
down.
If I remember right went putting passenger side on first:

Orich
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 03:21 PM
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Thank you for your reply.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 03:45 PM
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Get help lifting the intake manifold it weighs 85 lbs.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 06:52 PM
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Assuming it's a FE engine in the F250. You will want to make sure you do not mix up the push rods and put them back just as they came out. Also do not mix up the rocker shaft bolts because one of them on each side is smaller in dia. and an oil passage. I'm thinking it is 3&7 off the top of my head, but won't swear too it. You'll have to run the rocker shafts back down a little at a time and from one end to the other so you don't bend them. Make sure you know the torque and sequence for he heads, intake and rockers. Intake will need re-torqued after it's been ran up to operating temp and cooled one time. You can do it!

KOT390
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 08:49 PM
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thank you for your insight. If anyone has any more tips that would be great.I plan on doing it soon.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 08:56 PM
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Forgot to mention, once you set the intake back down on there, you will want to drop the distributor back in before torquing the intake bolts. Also use a little sealer on the bottom of the intake bolt heads.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 09:19 PM
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Get the shop manual and study the procedure. It's not a nightmare but it might be, I guess, if you **** it up. There's certain steps and things that need to be done, and in a certain order. In my experience I have had good success with unfamiliar tasks so long as I don't get impatient or try to do it half assed or on the cheap. Follow the steps exactly as described in the manual. Check cylinder head surfaces for straightness. Better, just have them resurfaced so they are known to be absolutely flat. Basically a machine shop will run the heads over a belt sander. It's cheap, especially compared with the aggravation of having to do the job twice.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 12:59 PM
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I think your best bet is watching a You Tube or two on it 1st. If you already know what to do there will be no hiccups. And you'll have fun.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I think your best bet is watching a You Tube or two on it 1st. If you already know what to do there will be no hiccups. And you'll have fun.
Or just pull your big boy panties up and get after it like us old people. Just kiddin, sorta.....

Seriously, it's just nuts and bolts. Pay attention to how and where it all comes apart ant you'll be ok.
I might add that I don't recall seeing (now don't get scared) I would pull the exhaust at the manifold. Often the upper exhaust manifold bolts will break off in the head. That will save you from dill and tapping.
 
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