Getting the slow crank when hot, I know it not a heat soaked starter, bad wire or ground, just need to fine tune timing, Do I advance or retard? would 2 degrees be enough?
Thanks

 

10° BTDC should not be a factor with kickback. Retard timing if you want, something else is going on though.

 

^^^^x2

​​​​​​​You need to retard

​​​​​​​But the module *should* be doing that for you (if the white wire has power while the starter is engaged.

 

Hey! No need to call people names ha ha

 

Not all of the modules do the retard. I have one on Big Blue that does and one that doesn't. Makes a big difference in the way it starts.

 

So maybe try 8 degrees rather than 10?
then again , this is one of my OLD, beat up modules, Maybe Ill try one of the NOS ones....

 

Try a different module before you retard the timing. Big Blue was kicking back pretty significantly until I changed modules.

 

Set it to 6* to compare, but initial timing of 10* should not be a factor in hard starting. It's in the 14*-16* range that starting gets hard. I'm more inclined to suspect starter, wiring, battery.

 

Interesting. Was it an aftermarket ignition module?

What module did you have that did not retard the timing?

And which one *did* retard the timing?

 

I have to rule these out, Right up to Duraspark swap, never had a slow crank hot start with the HEI Set up, but the HEI was breaking up and popping, and since its a "newer" starter, newer hot and dedicated ground to starter, and two year old battery, this is a timing thing. I'll verify I'm still at 10 BTDC, have 12V on the white wire to the module (while cranking) and then try the NOS module.

 

Rick - The module in the back lets it kick back, and the one in front doesn't.

 

Does it turn over fast or slow? If it's turning over relatively slow you may get it fighting the starter at an initial timing setting where it normally wouldn't even if the engine had a points distributor and no ignition box to retard timing while cranking.

 

Try to find a module that retards if that is the problem. You want your timing up as far as you can get it. Retarded timing means less power, less throttle response, less fuel mileage.

You then may find you have pinging problems. That's what you get with the stock duraspark II dist curves. They ran a low initial timing number and a lot of vacuum advance. A couple of engines I had ran much better with the initial timing setting high, and just leaving the vacuum advance disconnected. Others I experimented with mechanically limiting the vacuum advance.

P.S. Or you may have found your HEI popping problem. You may be more than 10 BTDC if the harmonic balancer has slipped. If you were running the HEI way too advanced that could explain that problem also.

 

The first HEI dizzy lasted about 2 seasons, then started "dropping out" then after a while popping and running rough, Called manufacturer, they sent a new module, but that didn't help. This thing let go and left me on the side of the road.

They said to pull the dizzy and send back, they will analyze, and if defective they will send another one free.
But it would take a few weeks, so I bought a new one while sending in the old one, That HEI ran great for about 1 season, it just started dropping out (just like the first one) Had enough.
Now they sent a new one again cause the first one's weights "sized"

will check balancer for wear.. Thanks

 

If the weights seized then you'd be stuck at whatever advance position they were in when they seized - presumably zero advance. That would make the truck sluggish, but wouldn't cause popping, running rough, and certainly wouldn't cause it to strand you. Obviously they don't know what they are talking about or aren't telling the truth. Glad you found another vendor.

Balancers can change with every start of the engine, and I've seen that. It means the outer rim has broken loose from the inner hub and is moving. But usually they'll get stuck at some position and quit moving. The one on Rusty when I got it was cocked to the point it had obviously broken free and wasn't anywhere near correct. In fact, it was scary as it looked like it could come off.

So, look for the outer rim not being true to the hub. If so, it has probably slipped.