Dizzy Rotor bounces?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
I have steel gears already in my timing cover. Can I pull the one off my cam and reuse on the new Cam? I don't have the capability to pull the engine or head. Is this safe to do all the work without pulling the head? and some of your words are still jargon to me. I am learning but I am just trying to get a running engine and the cam is what broke so I am trying to minimize what I do but at the same time besure its effective. Can you point me at some specific reading and videos that can explain the process to me. I have seen a few threads in the forum but I am having a hard time deciphering all of it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
This is what I am looking at.
No rollers or rockers included.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford
No rollers or rockers included.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...view/make/ford
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,643
Likes: 69
Just guessing here, but maybe the increased side-scrubbing action of the higher lift cam in conjunction with the non-roller rockers accelerated the wear on the valve guides. Did you check the valve guides for wear after it started burning oil?
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
From: Ottawa, Canada
I'm thinking either the valve guides wore because of the factory rockers, or the valve seals. But I haven't checked. That head has sat on the shelf since.
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
From: Ottawa, Canada
Yes you can reuse the gears and saves the hassle of pulling the crank gear. The can gear is pressed off the cam. Take the gear off as well as the plate and key. Press them all onto the new cam and back in the engine. The plate is brittle do not put pressure on it.
Yes it is possible to change the valve springs with the head on. Just be sure to keep the piston at the top to not lose a valve. I did it once. A spring flew out of the tool out the garage and across the property. I walked around with a flood light and extension cord for ages to find it. I now pull the head to change springs.
I still recommend screw in rocker studs and at least comp stamped rockers. That requires pulling the head anyway.
There are many threads on how to change cams here have a loon around. If you have a specific question unanswered by them I'll help.
Yes it is possible to change the valve springs with the head on. Just be sure to keep the piston at the top to not lose a valve. I did it once. A spring flew out of the tool out the garage and across the property. I walked around with a flood light and extension cord for ages to find it. I now pull the head to change springs.
I still recommend screw in rocker studs and at least comp stamped rockers. That requires pulling the head anyway.
There are many threads on how to change cams here have a loon around. If you have a specific question unanswered by them I'll help.
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
From: Ottawa, Canada
Here's the proper way to do it
1. drain your coolant and oil
2. pull the rad, belts, valve cover, grille, fan, water pump pulley, pushrod cover, distributor, fuel pump
3. using a puller pull the balancer and remove the timing cover
4. remove the rockers, pushrods, and throw the lifters in the garbage
5. remove the intake and exhaust
6. roll the engine to topdead center and leave it
7. take off the 2 cam retaining bolts
8. pull the cam
9. press off the old gear, don't damage the plate or lose the small key
press the parts on the new cam
10. pull the head and have a machine shop and recondition the head while its off, new screw in studs, install valve springs and set to height according the card the came with the kit
11. clean the engine deck surface with fine sand paper on a flat bar of steel to clean it up
12. cover the cam lobes, bearing surfaces and lifters with the included lube
13. slide the cam in with gears lined up, drop in new lifters
14. install head, torque to specs in order
15. install pushrods, fuel pump, distributor at #1, timing cover, balancer, pushrod cover, water pump pulley, fan, rad, intake and exhaust.
16. adjust your valves one cylinder at a time. roll the engine over a 1/3 turn so the distributor points at the next cylinder and adjust that one.
17. fill break in oil and coolant
18. put on valve cover
19. start the engine and run for 20min at 2000-2500 rpm varying.
20. be sure the pushrods spin.
21. recheck valve lash
22. oil and filter change
23. good to go
I may have missed something off the top of my head.
1. drain your coolant and oil
2. pull the rad, belts, valve cover, grille, fan, water pump pulley, pushrod cover, distributor, fuel pump
3. using a puller pull the balancer and remove the timing cover
4. remove the rockers, pushrods, and throw the lifters in the garbage
5. remove the intake and exhaust
6. roll the engine to topdead center and leave it
7. take off the 2 cam retaining bolts
8. pull the cam
9. press off the old gear, don't damage the plate or lose the small key
press the parts on the new cam
10. pull the head and have a machine shop and recondition the head while its off, new screw in studs, install valve springs and set to height according the card the came with the kit
11. clean the engine deck surface with fine sand paper on a flat bar of steel to clean it up
12. cover the cam lobes, bearing surfaces and lifters with the included lube
13. slide the cam in with gears lined up, drop in new lifters
14. install head, torque to specs in order
15. install pushrods, fuel pump, distributor at #1, timing cover, balancer, pushrod cover, water pump pulley, fan, rad, intake and exhaust.
16. adjust your valves one cylinder at a time. roll the engine over a 1/3 turn so the distributor points at the next cylinder and adjust that one.
17. fill break in oil and coolant
18. put on valve cover
19. start the engine and run for 20min at 2000-2500 rpm varying.
20. be sure the pushrods spin.
21. recheck valve lash
22. oil and filter change
23. good to go
I may have missed something off the top of my head.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Here's the proper way to do it
1. drain your coolant and oil
2. pull the rad, belts, valve cover, grille, fan, water pump pulley, pushrod cover, distributor, fuel pump
3. using a puller pull the balancer and remove the timing cover
4. remove the rockers, pushrods, and throw the lifters in the garbage
5. remove the intake and exhaust
6. roll the engine to topdead center and leave it
7. take off the 2 cam retaining bolts
8. pull the cam
9. press off the old gear, don't damage the plate or lose the small key
press the parts on the new cam
10. pull the head and have a machine shop and recondition the head while its off, new screw in studs, install valve springs and set to height according the card the came with the kit
11. clean the engine deck surface with fine sand paper on a flat bar of steel to clean it up
12. cover the cam lobes, bearing surfaces and lifters with the included lube
13. slide the cam in with gears lined up, drop in new lifters
14. install head, torque to specs in order
15. install pushrods, fuel pump, distributor at #1, timing cover, balancer, pushrod cover, water pump pulley, fan, rad, intake and exhaust.
16. adjust your valves one cylinder at a time. roll the engine over a 1/3 turn so the distributor points at the next cylinder and adjust that one.
17. fill break in oil and coolant
18. put on valve cover
19. start the engine and run for 20min at 2000-2500 rpm varying.
20. be sure the pushrods spin.
21. recheck valve lash
22. oil and filter change
23. good to go
I may have missed something off the top of my head.
1. drain your coolant and oil
2. pull the rad, belts, valve cover, grille, fan, water pump pulley, pushrod cover, distributor, fuel pump
3. using a puller pull the balancer and remove the timing cover
4. remove the rockers, pushrods, and throw the lifters in the garbage
5. remove the intake and exhaust
6. roll the engine to topdead center and leave it
7. take off the 2 cam retaining bolts
8. pull the cam
9. press off the old gear, don't damage the plate or lose the small key
press the parts on the new cam
10. pull the head and have a machine shop and recondition the head while its off, new screw in studs, install valve springs and set to height according the card the came with the kit
11. clean the engine deck surface with fine sand paper on a flat bar of steel to clean it up
12. cover the cam lobes, bearing surfaces and lifters with the included lube
13. slide the cam in with gears lined up, drop in new lifters
14. install head, torque to specs in order
15. install pushrods, fuel pump, distributor at #1, timing cover, balancer, pushrod cover, water pump pulley, fan, rad, intake and exhaust.
16. adjust your valves one cylinder at a time. roll the engine over a 1/3 turn so the distributor points at the next cylinder and adjust that one.
17. fill break in oil and coolant
18. put on valve cover
19. start the engine and run for 20min at 2000-2500 rpm varying.
20. be sure the pushrods spin.
21. recheck valve lash
22. oil and filter change
23. good to go
I may have missed something off the top of my head.
you say check valves. All I am seeing to check is lash? Is this correct?
can I pull lifters with the head on? Do I use a magnet for this?
I am not pulling the head so I won't be doing a bunch of those steps... What kind of oil for break in?
is my set I linked to up top the right set? Can you point me to the rockers and studs you recommend?
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
From: Ottawa, Canada
you say check valves. All I am seeing to check is lash? Is this correct?
can I pull lifters with the head on? Do I use a magnet for this?
I am not pulling the head so I won't be doing a bunch of those steps... What kind of oil for break in?
is my set I linked to up top the right set? Can you point me to the rockers and studs you recommend?
can I pull lifters with the head on? Do I use a magnet for this?
I am not pulling the head so I won't be doing a bunch of those steps... What kind of oil for break in?
is my set I linked to up top the right set? Can you point me to the rockers and studs you recommend?
Rockers are comp cams 1266-12Studs you can use ARP 134-7104, but the head must be pulled and sent to a machine shop to install them. If you already have pivot ball rockers you may be fine. I send bolt down rockers and they may have been what caused problems. The added lift and spring pressure may pull out press in studs. Up to you of you want to spend the cash for parts that can take the abuse or chance the stock parts. There is always the option of a small cam and leaving the stock springs etc on.
The lifters are behind the cover next to your distributor. Head can stay on. Pliers or a magnet will get them out then throw them in the garbage.
Checking valves , I probably meant lash.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Thanks Jason. I am feeling confident in my ability to perform this. Now to call around and see what it will cost for the studs. I know my one shop will press my gears off the old cam and on the new one for $30
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
My issue now is that I am slowly approaching $900. The engine builder in town has one sitting on the floor that was just rebuilt. Already broke in. They claim 220hp and 350tq. Don't know if I believe it. I am not chasing High Power. So I don't care too much. It was built for a drag car.
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 396
Likes: 5
From: Ottawa, Canada
It's up to you what you spend the cash on. The 300 unfortunately is expensive to make power on. Horse power is cheap to make, reliable horsepower gets expensive. I'd ask whats in that engine. 220hp is on par with engine build you were already considering....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
If i just put the cam kit in for now to get it running will it be a problem with stock rockers?
I don't have the cash for everything but the rollers are at the top easy to do later. I just need the vehicle running for now. Its not a daily driver. Yet. I would like to get to that point but I am too occupied with work and school to get it there.
I don't have the cash for everything but the rollers are at the top easy to do later. I just need the vehicle running for now. Its not a daily driver. Yet. I would like to get to that point but I am too occupied with work and school to get it there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BakerB_91
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Apr 20, 2019 08:04 PM