dist. ring gears
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 63
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From: near reno
dist. ring gears
scenario:less than 5000 miles on fresh rebuild,using a comp 268h cam. at 3500 miles i lost about 5 0r 6 teeth on the distributor ring gear. I replaced the dist, only to have it happen again, about 700 miles later. since then, i also replaced the oil pump, to a melling high volume, only to have it strip another ring gear. today i opened up the timing cover, and found the retainer plate intact and tight. The only other thing i can think of, is misscut gears on the cam itself. This one is driving me crazy!! Has anyone got any other suggestions for a possible cause or cure? ty in advance for any input...dan
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 1
From: redding U.S.A.
now see i just went and typed up a good response and didn't hit the button right.
here we go again:
While the timing cover is off, check for the endplay in the cam. There shouldn't be any. Its possible that you didn't press the cam gear on all the way up against the spacer.
Take a peak down the bore for the distributor. how does the gear look in there? Check the wear pattern on both gears (cam and dist) if you can, look for anything irregular.
here we go again:
While the timing cover is off, check for the endplay in the cam. There shouldn't be any. Its possible that you didn't press the cam gear on all the way up against the spacer.
Take a peak down the bore for the distributor. how does the gear look in there? Check the wear pattern on both gears (cam and dist) if you can, look for anything irregular.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 6
From: Spokane WA
good point
there really is no way to reliably put a steel cam gear all the way on without a big shop press.
If it is an aluminum gear it can be put on by baking the gear to 300 degrees or so and tapping it onto a cam thats been in the freezer overnight.
there really is no way to reliably put a steel cam gear all the way on without a big shop press.
If it is an aluminum gear it can be put on by baking the gear to 300 degrees or so and tapping it onto a cam thats been in the freezer overnight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 1
From: redding U.S.A.
There is, or should be, a threaded bolt hole, i'm guessing 3/8" that you can pull the gear on with.
I tossed the cam in the freezer and pulled my hot (about 200*) steel gear on using the bolt and it went on pretty smoothly. You should know when the gear is bottomed out, and that hold down plate should not have any slack in it, but should still spin freely.
I tossed the cam in the freezer and pulled my hot (about 200*) steel gear on using the bolt and it went on pretty smoothly. You should know when the gear is bottomed out, and that hold down plate should not have any slack in it, but should still spin freely.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 504
Likes: 2
From: Saddle Brook United State
When I installed a new stock (not ford) cam gear on the new stock Melling cam I had installed I used a bolt and large flat washer to pull the gear on the cam nose, I then found that when the nose of the cam was flush with the outside of the gear hub here was much too much end play. I made a 1/4 inch thick ring with an inside diameter slightly larger than the cam nose and put it between the flat washer and the cam gear. This allowed the cam to move farther out/into the gear,(about 1/32") until it bottomed. There should be only .005 end play in the cam with the gear on all the way. The thread in the cam nose is 7/16-14, get a grade 8 bolt from the local hardware.
stractor
stractor
Last edited by stractor; Jan 16, 2006 at 12:09 AM.
