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Just got a 87 i6 with a np435. I need to do the clutch/flywheel. I was mainly wondering what other items should be replaced while I'm in there? I'm assuming the rear main. Also, will I need new bolts or can I reuse the old ones?
Any time you tear into the clutch replace the clutch disc, pressure plate throwout bearing and probably the pilot bearing. You will need a special tool to remove the old pilot bearing and even then they can SOMETIMES be a real beast to remove. I had to use a cold chisel to remove the pilot bearing on my '88 with the 6 cylinder.
Beings you just got it you probably don't know much about the history of it. I assume your clutch must be slipping or rough? In which case you will need to replace or resurface the flywheel as you suggest.
If you have any leakage from the rear main seal you would need to replace it so the oil doesn't get on the clutch and make it slip. If no sign of leakage I personally wouldn't replace it. I have around 230k miles on my '88 and no sign of leakage and never replaced the seal. Your results may vary.
You have an external slave cylinder so don't worry about replacing it now unless it leaks.
The guy that I got it from said that there was a large cloud of smoke while driving. After which the clutch stayed down and and it would not go into gear.... well it does go into gear, but nothing engages. The master is also bone dry
The brake fluid probably shot out of the hydraulic system and onto the exhaust. You need to figure out where it came from so you can repair that...the hydraulics are bad in your system, not necessarily the clutch. Don't order a new clutch until you fix your hydraulics.
Removing pilot bearing/bushing? Easy....pack it with grease and remove it the Ole fashion way, hydraulically. Once packed with grease (behind and inside the bearing), take a wooden dowel, or a socket extension, that fits snug inside the bearing and beat the dowel with a hammer....the grease will push the bearing right out.
The guy that I got it from said that there was a large cloud of smoke while driving. After which the clutch stayed down and and it would not go into gear.... well it does go into gear, but nothing engages. The master is also bone dry
I assume you are saying you can just shift into gear with the engine running and you probably get no grinding?
'89F2rd likely nailed the smoking. It's strange the truck won't move UNLESS the blown out slave cylinder is somehow holding the lever that goes through the clutch housing that operates the throwout bearing. Another possibility the throwout bearing froze up on the shaft it slides on, holding the pressure plate disengaged, that would really be a strange one.
First thing I would crawl under the truck to see if POSSIBLY the blown out slave cylinder is somehow pushing tight against the lever that goes through the clutch housing.
Ok, so I took the tunnel cover off and it appears to be a np435. Im wondering what the correct clutch kit would be for the truck? Its an 87 I6 with the np435 transmission. Most clutch kits that I look at do not specify the transmission, but I believe that the np might be sort of uncommon in this year. Anything helps guys!!!
Does the lever that goes through the clutch housing( the lever that the slave cylinder should push against) move back and forth freely for a short distance?(front to back)
Ok, so I took the tunnel cover off and it appears to be a np435. Im wondering what the correct clutch kit would be for the truck? Its an 87 I6 with the np435 transmission. Most clutch kits that I look at do not specify the transmission, but I believe that the np might be sort of uncommon in this year. Anything helps guys!!!
My '87 has an NP435 in it. Don't know what clutch is in it though/ I need to replace mine because of chatter, but it still works good. I've read where they have a 10" clutch and an 11" clutch. The only way I know for sure is to pull it apart before I get a new one.
You need to check your clutch linkage like has been stated before.